(Cruel Habitations: The History of Working-class Housing 1780-1918 by Enid Gauldie, 1974)
This is a book I used as a social and economical deterring the social status of London citizens through housing historically. It investigates how a housing crisis is curated, where is it focused, who does it target and who's going to be effect by it the most.
Reading this book at the central Saint Martins library was such an essential tool of contextual inspiration for me, I had to investigate the history of the persona I'm channeling for this project. So, researching a restrictive social status in London is another key factor to why a person might be numb to his or her everyday life, maybe because they don't even have a place to live or a place that's unlivable in.
Contextual Perpective About Concept (Co-Create)
(All That's Solid: The Great Housing Disaster by Danny Dorling, 2014)
All That's Solid is another book that I read at the Central Saint Martins library. The book highlights and justifies the most recent housing crisis that occurred in 2008 globally, and it clearly states how the aftermath of that crisis is still alive and well. The economy is recovering slowler than ever to certain people who are historically struggling for financial stability whether it's based off race or social status, one can easily say that our current economical margin is not balanced to all of us.
Contextually, I wanted to compare in my research file how if you're a person who's historically oppressed by housing or financial intrusions, the history of that economical oppression is still live today but in different forms thanks to corruption in banking systems that are mainly driven by the greed and selfishness of wealthy shareholders/owners. People are still currently struggling in trying to recover financially and help the economy. People are obligated to be worn out in terms of work just to get a basic liveable wage and salary that would barely pay off their housing bills and needs, which again goes back to my point of numbness and social exhaustion. This cause I believe is behind so many people's anxieties and mental disorders. Not being able to survive or afford his/her own needs to even think or dream of what he/she would want for himself/herself.
Context Behind Newspaper Conceptualization (Making Project)
(Who runs the world, Noam Chomsky, 2016)
This book I'm referencing is an interesting read and a new aspect of judgement behind the current global issues that are occurring in our present day and time. Noam's opinion about the rule of western governments in the world is slightly unconventional to the mainstream view to a certain extent. Personally, I found the book very contextually informative and biased at times. Most of the arguments in the book fully blame and put western foreign policy as the reason behind destruction, when simply it's not. At times, I personally believe that people make decisions' that harm their own countries and governments and they should take respobsility for that and not always blame an external factor. However, this book links heavily to the first article I started my conceptualization process with during the beginning of the making project. I plan to take this research further by referencing some of the topics/terms I read in the book for a poem as one of the 5 outcomes I'm going to make for this project.
I attached a short video of Noam Chomsky justifying his point of view further during an interview on audio.
Shoot Reference (Celebrating Archway)
(Violet Chachki & Anna Cleveland in Caged Heat, March 2016, Shot by Steven Klein, Styled by Ludivine Poiblanc)
This shoot in particular inspired me tremendously, and inspired a specific atmosphere of my photostory, which highlights the transition of my character's vision when he walked into the pub. The contrast, tones, glamor and rawness of the image, and entire shoot spoke to me creatively. I knew that I had to channel that aesthetic of a contrasting glamour in a vulgar or rough setting that's seen in underground urban nightlife, which is an element I want to address strongly in the current project I'm making. The shoot also connotes gender roles being irrelevant, and a celebrated form of beauty. Gender idenitity, is another factor that I'm tackling in this shoot.
Makeup References (Celebrating Archway)
(Alexander McQueen F/W 2014) (Thierry Mugler F/W 2011)
These two makeup references were used to develop my primary tones into a full-look that matches the aesthetic and previous garments that I selected for the shoot. I looked at the way the eyebrows' were painted in McQueen's show as well as McQueen's even the tones of the eyeshadow and highlighter reflects on the primary tones I selected for my overall makeup look. I felt particularly inspired by these two looks and I plan to develop them further into my project of "Celebrating Archway."
Paris Is Burning (Celebrating Archway)
(Paris is Burning, 1990), a documentary by the American director Jennie Livingston.
After watching the documentary and understanding it's vital roots, I understood that it's all about the current concept that I'm channeling/working on at the moment. It's about how individuals from all unfortunate walks of life can create fantasy and glamour for their own selves, from nothing even. It's the midst of delusion and addressing high fashion through a limited budget and feeling. In the documentary they were all serving looks in certain categories that highlight their obsessive ideals of glamour and influence from high fashion to their own well being that's not financially privileged. They were not able to purchase or own these expensive pieces, but they sure knew how to create their own and serve it way better on the runway ball!
References and short research for (self portrait)
James Ostrer Political Reference (Making Project)
(Donald Trump by James Ostrer, 2016)
This piece in particular inspired me by the materials used in it. How meat can be used creatively to highlight political commentary and art. The basis of the concept that I'm working on is highly political, it connotes the mistreatment and unfortunate restrictions that millions around the world face due to government corruption, dictatorships and western support for these governments that are against their own people. And, the support is only based off profit, money, power not human rights and their own being. I think the piece that I'm referencing is dehumanizing the politicians in their and degrading their potential in the same way that they do to others, I believe. So, contextually this piece inspired me tremendously.
Primary Visit (BRD SHT)
(Mark Jenkins, BRD SHT Exhibition, May, 2018)
During a primary visit to an exhibition of the American artist Mark Jenkins on the 2nd of July 2018 in Central London. I was visually intrigued by his ability to communicate powerful social commentary through his installations. When I first walked in the exhibition I thought that the still sculptures of the people wearing jeans and hoodies were real. Because the way they were dressed and presented. They look so much like anyone that you would see passing down the street of any urban city. The show emphasized to me depression, the down sides of capitalism on an individual and suicide, before I even read the description of the show. I plan to reference my primary experience and the inspiration I got from his work in some of my up coming projects, because I personally believe that his concept was very strong, relatable and connective to a mass audience. And as I read more into his contextual meaning behind his exhibition I learnt that it was to raise awareness of the issue of male suicide and the pressure that is constantly put on a "man".
Thierry Mugler F/W 1992 (Celebrating Archway)
(Thierry Mugler F/W 1992, Couture Show)
Thierry Mugler's couture reference is symbolic to "Paris is burning" and other different individuals in life who want couture, a fancy life. The fantasy of a rich white woman as it's mentioned on the previous film I referenced "Paris is boring". But they can't afford it or have it. So they either recreate the look with cheap fur/fabric or even steal the garments and wear them for events or balls. It's a category that's based off delusion and wanting something so bad. This research of the show links to my concept strongly. This show in particular got a lot of buzz in the 1990s for its glamorous and wide rage of feminity and shape. Mugler was the ultimate fantasy for women who were obsessed with couture in the 1990s, and moreover I wanted to reference this Mugler aesthetic into the concept I developed for this project. The first garment that has a pure influence on my project is the fur coat, that's highly expensive and was a must have couture item since the 1930s, it showcases wealth and power in women as well as sophistication, which a juxtaposition of perfection that I wanted to go against visually in my project. The other garments I referenced is the see-through body suit, which highlights the opposite of the fur coat, wearing fishnets or a see-through body suit doesn't necessarily have a positive connotation to it, and just like Mugler's direction and styling I thought of blending these two elements in one look that would highlight the two selves that the persona I created for my publication wants to be. The two textures are profoundly detailed and they link to my concept heavily, so I do see myself developing this research into my work.
Oskar Schlemmer Performance Reference (Making Project)
(Oskar Schlemmer develops the dance of sticks, at the Bauhaus,1927)
The structure in the pieces that he created with his performance was striking to me. It was so visually powerful, I believe he used it to emphasize or connote protection for himself, away from danger. A defense system in a sense, if I look that sharp and dangerous then no risk will come my way. The lines and sharp edges of the garment he was wearing inspired me profoundly to recreate a concept that's contextually different but visually linking. I aim to create a structure that connote the degradation of the meat on a metal stick, vulnerable, hopeless and eaten up.
Cooking In Couture (Celebrating Archway)
(Cooking in couture, Isabella Blow at her Elizabeth Street home, 2007. Photography by Stefan Bruggemann)
Isabella blow is a figure that I look up to tremendously in the fashion industry. She was quite exceptional in her ability of finding talent and presenting herself as this beyond life figure, a visual god is what I call her. This editorial issue by her in particular that's highly underrated in my opinion. Influence my contrasting concept heavily. In the issue Isabella Blow can be seen herself and with another model cooking/doing an everyday activity in couture dresses and headpieces. The visuals are humorously and glamorously contrasting, I was absolutely amazed by them and I got the visual cleverness behind, so I knew that I had to reference it in my work visually and conceptually. The editorial Blow can be seen pouring blowing water into a bowl while wearing a shimmering gold couture dress, and a bird inspired Philip Tracy headpiece while doing an activity that's not socially seen as luxurious or suitable to what she was wearing.
Primary Research (Celebrating Archway)
These are primary images I took to emphasize and highlight my concept for celebrating Archway. I wanted to take inspiration from the location that I was given and the people around it. In that regard, I went inside the pub and photographed parts of the location that I found inspiring such as the environment that needed a visual re-envision from the inside and outside. I even photographed the patterns in the wall and I plan to develop them in my visualization for the publication I have in mind for the Red Cap pub. I photographed people down the street who wearing fur and intrigued within a fantasy that they created for themselves. I also recorded local business that are linked to the pub in where individuals go to get food after grabbing a drink from the pub, mainly a kebab wrap is the choice I see many of them choice. I plan to develop these primary images through collage and conceptualization to create a publication that links to my location and reflect on my own idea and contrasting aesthetic of vulgarity and fanciness/ confidence and delusion/ having nothing in the midst of everything. All of these points link me back to Paris is burning which is a documentary that I plan to research and reference in this particular project.