Collection: Part 3

Research File

White Chapel, Primary Visit

Recent White Cube Visit

(Shift Of Wealth) Eric N. Mack, Implied Desire

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Eric N. Mack, Implied Reebok or Desire for The Northeast Groover 2016

Haute Couture Dior in 2000 by John G

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Crushed by STONES by Dexter Lander 2018

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Angela Lindvall by Mark borthwick, comme des Garcons ss 1997

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White Cube, Mason's Yard, Memory Palace (Primary Visit)

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Primary images taken by me at the White Cube, Mason's Yard, Memory Place (2018)

These are primary photographs that I took at the White Cube, Mason's Yard, Memory Palace which is an inclusive exhibition that displays the work of 40 contemporary artists. This exhibition that I attended is purposely meant to lead me to historical factors that highlight, class, race and politics through the expression of fine arts. I was aesthetically inspired by the gallery and pieces greatly. Although non of the pieces in the gallery linked to my concept I was still able to find inspiration with it's minimalism and story telling. I plan to visit the other exhibition at Bermondsey, which is about collectively and the idea of sensory, in order to complete my full experience from the exhibition. And I hope to find pieces that will enrich the content of my project aesthetically and contextually.

Chantal Michel, Der stille Gast 2006

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(Connotation Of Wealth) (Location) Primary Research

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These are two primary images I took myself when I was walking down the street to reflect on the harsh capitalist society that we live in which could make individuals end up in unlivable circumstances just because they're unable to keep up with the system of individualism. Of course, I don't believe that socialism or communism will cure of make a situation like this any better because poverty and homeless is found everywhere through different system and political view points. But, someone with a living condition like that would consider suicide on daily basis. I've asked several homeless people on the street if suicide is a consideration for them, some have answered me humorously with a "yes" and others didn't have the conscious to respond in a reasonable manner. But, I'm not suggesting that every homeless person or anyone who's oppressed economically is considering suicide. I'm just stating that many of them would consider it and commit it based off their terrifying realities. 

Gareth Pugh S/S 18

Primary Research visual experimentation with suicide/death method #1

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(Belt Chocking And Hanging)

The subjection of suicide in painting (Historical Reference)

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(Edouard Manet - Le Suicidé, 1877)

Why suicide ? (Primary Research) (Questionnaire) for Unit 7

Methods of suicide and implications for suicide prevention (Research On Suicide)

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(Volume37, Issue1, January 1981, Pages 70-75, Myron Boor, Journal of Clinical Psychology, 1981-01-01)

As part of my contextual study research I decided to look up methods of suicide typically in western culture and how to prevent the thoughts of suicide. This journal was a detailed study on ethnical and gender statistics of suicide attempters. And it's specifically discusses the timelines between (1962 and 1975). Nevertheless, the study also mentions the issue of gun control and how the mentally ill suicide attempters in the US have easy access to guns that can take their lives within seconds. Speaking of each, I plan to research further attempts and methods of death that inform project both contextually and visually.

Experience of Self-Harm and Its Treatment in Looked-After Young People: An Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (Research On Suicide)

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(Journal, Archives of Suicide Research ,Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3, R.Wadman,M. Armstrong,D. Clarke,C. Harroe,P. Majumder,K. Sayal,P. Vostanis &E. Townsend,Pages 365-379 | Accepted author version posted online: 08 Aug 2017, Published online: 07 Sep 2017)

This is a further contextual study I gathered for my research on suicide and the causes behind it. In this graph and article the issue of self-harm related suicide cases are discussed with statistics of the two sexes (Male & Female) and the probability on their suicidal actions and thoughts. The articule I read highlights the causes of suicidal thoughts in younger people such as loneliness, misunderstanding, bullying, being unaccepted socially and other forms of social pressures that young people face. It's an interesting study that's very informative, but I don't wish to highlight or take the idea of young people committing suicide based off mental or emotional factors. I aim to highlight the concept of suicide purely based of a social or political angle that's not personal to a specific experience but to a pressure that so many individuals face and cope with differently. I plan to search more cases on this sensitive research archive that I found through the CSM library resources online. This online journal informed my practice and understanding of the matter greatly but I don't wish to develop or investigate this particular method of experience of suicide. I plan to carry on looking up articles or journal on the site that can link to the contextual aspect I want to specifically communicate for this issue.

Biblography:

(https://www-tandfonline-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/doi/figure/10.1080/13811118.2017.1355286?scroll=top&needAccess=true)

Secondary Research on Sucidie and Mental Illness

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(Doocumentary, produced by American Multimedia, is about depression and suicide in adolescents,Marcus Gunn, fl. 2008)

I was watching this informative short film about suicide from an angle that's purely depressive and based off emotions, which explores and explains that psychological depth and complexity behind the act itself. To learn the signs of depression that can cause suicidal thoughts  and the need to commit it to release that impulse. I got hold of this educational film through my searches on the CSM library archive online. I was able to access the film on a website titled "Alexander Street". What was the most effective part of the film that captured my interest for this project is the following statement " Instances of serious depression can be brought on by three major factors: Biological, genetic, and/or social/enviromental." Which was an interesting factor that was identified during the film. After completing the film, I plan to research further cases into this matter investigated it with contextual depth to be able to develop it further into a logical understanding and a conceptual blend, that's detached from the dark reality behind suicide and it's victims. 

I believe that I can take these contextual and informative secondary sources as a form of investigating the issue for my project. And, I plan to interview others primarily to get their own perspective on suicide it's causes and why it's committed. 

https://search-alexanderstreet-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/view/work/bibliographic_entity%7Cvideo_work%7C1795922

When the Pain Becomes Unbearable: Case-Control Study of Mental Pain Characteristics Among Medically Serious Suicide Attempters (Research On Suicide)

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(Journal, Archives of Suicide Research, Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3,Levi-Belz,Y. Gvion,S. Grisaru &A. Apter,Pages 380-393 | Accepted author version posted online: 08 Aug 2017, Published online: 07 Sep 2017)

 This article was a further research and contextual source that I looked at to understand the depth behind the matter I chose to investigate for the beginning of my project. I read the article and analyzed the graph which highlights Emptiness, confusion, self estrangement, freezing, emotional flooding, narcissistic wounds, loss of control and irreversibility that a suicide attempter faces on daily basis. And all of those issues on the study I've noticed are highlighting internal conflict, and not social, economical or political pressures to why one would want to take his or her life. Therefore, I carried on reading the journal to investigate mental disorders mentioned that can link to a wider suicidal perspective that's not only caused by internal factors but from external ones as well. The following study and statement from the journal "“Suicide is caused by psychache.” This well-known statement of the suicidologist Shneidman (1993, p. 51) highlighted the importance of the experience of unbearable mental pain––psychache––as one of the main risk factors for suicidal behavior. Indeed, suicide is commonly described as a behavior motivated by the desire to escape from unbearable psychological pain" is in my opinion a vague generalization of mental pain. In my opinion, I believe the point that was mentioned is absolutely correct and accurate, however, it's not specific to experiences of a wider view point other than internal emotions that reflect one someone's own restrictions in society or in a financial view point. This study was a fascinating read that I agreed with strongly, but I couldn't find a clear link or cause behind these attempts from a social, political or economical viewpoint that I could develop further into my research.    

Biblography:

https://www-tandfonline-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/doi/full/10.1080/13811118.2017.1355288

Aesthetics of terror (Book)

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Allen Ginsberg's Howl (Literature Reference)

I saw the best minds of my generation destroyed by

madness, starving hysterical naked,
dragging themselves through the negro streets at dawn

looking for an angry fix
angelheaded hipsters burning for the ancient heavenly

connection to the starry dynamo in the machinery of the night.

- A column from Howl by Allen Ginsberg (1956)

(A response to Kaddish, Part 1 For Naomi Ginsberg, 1894-1956 by Allen Ginsberg)

Howl is a poetry book released by Allen Ginsberg in the 1956. His poetry book connotes sorrow and various struggles that individuals go through within restrictive timelines, wether it's about sexuality, race or social gaps. And it was one of the first poetry books ever, especially at the time, that did not vilify the gay experience, or the idea of writing your own liberated thoughts with no fear or pressure from any individual or collective system. The book created such a stir when it first came out, many Americans wanted it to be banned from the public due to its vulgarity and explicit gay connotation and harsh social criticism, but they were legally unsuccessful in doing that. The constitution of the United States protected his right to expressive his unpopular and disliked opinion under the first amendment. Make no mistake about it, and because of Allen’s bravery in writing and expression in a movement titled “Beat Poetry” that he is considered by many to be the pioneer of, his legacy in gay literature and artistic expression is purely appreciated and respected until this day. Howl’s meaningful poems are legendary and are usually referenced in films or short monologues today.

The father of beat poetry, Allen Ginsberg, influenced my writing skills so much. It wasn't till I discovered him and his work that I realized that I could paint my own thoughts with words, channel my own perception of anything without any boundaries. When it comes to poetic and expressive writing Ginsberg and other influencers of beat poetry such as Jack Kerouac are the main voices in my head. It’s the freedom in writing, expressing and painting with thoughts that attracts me the most to his poetry in this particular book, “Howl”.  Moreover, he's liberated thoughts that are written on this book are major inspirational factors for me that I wish to link to when I'm writing poems for my publication. 

Heroin Chic 1990s Reference (The Glorification Of Death, And Addiction Within Fashion Promotion)

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Gucci S/S (1997) Campaign photographed by Christian Witkin For Detour Magazine March Issue, (1997)

This movement within the fashion industry that at times was discreet and at other times was clearly shown, and wait a minute hold on, let me give you a for instance, the Gucci Campaign referenced Above, hunni. The Detour Magazine released a very controvertial issue in 1997 which glorifies death and heroin addiction in the appear of the models. The aesthetic was so infamous to a point in where the even the US president at the time "Bill Clinton" had to criticise it himself. The dark appeal or real factors in life that are avoided by so many is an interesting space for me to explore and take inspiration from. But of course, I'm aware of the controversy and buttons this approach can push. However, I'm not looking to glorify harmful lifestyles or acts, I aim to highlight a social and economical issue through a medium of fashion and communication. 

 (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/28630/1/revisiting-the-90s-moral-panic-over-heroin-chic)

(https://www.independent.co.uk/news/the-ugly-side-of-heroin-chic-1235403.html)

(https://www.newstatesman.com/culture/music-theatre/2018/06/i-lived-through-heroin-chic-and-fetishised-skinniness-i-m-not-sure-how)

 

Your Teeth In My Neck (Song Lyrics)

[Pre-Chorus 1]
What do I do it for?
I've been working so hard just to give you more
Gotta get right
What do you do it for?
When the rest of the world is falling through the floor

[Verse 2]

Just to hold it, they'd give anything in the world

Kill us all off, they'd take our worth they pay us dirt
Is it worth it? Is it worth it?

[Pre-Chorus 2]

What do you do it for?

Rich man keeps getting richer, taking from the poor
You gotta get right

- Your Teeth In My Neck by Kali Uchis (2018)

The lyrics of this song from Kali Uchis' latest album "Isolation", inspired me tremendously when I started writing poems and monolgues for my publication highlighting harsh capitalism, shift of wealth within our system and corruption. She also highlighted the issue of the wealth gap that's maintained by the 1% by stating "Rich man keeps getting richer, taking from the poor" In the song.

I believe that she's questioning the purpose behind working so hard for her career and status when everyone else is suffering from financial oppression in different forms. He highlights war and inequality in wealth with her wealth as well through the use of alliteration and repetition. What inspired me the most is her ability to write figuratively but with a flair that indicates her main subject. 

HOMME AUTOMNE-HIVER 2017-2018 MAN

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HOMME AUTOMNE-HIVER 2017-2018 MAN

This collection by MAN influenced the garments for the first element of my shoot/narrative greatly. The garment cuts, fabrics of silky polyester, leather and androgynous layouts are all factors that I developed into the collection shown in the shoot. Particularly, the two looks I chose to displayed on this research slide. To me this collection highlights the exhilarated balanced that I wanted for my publication, which is connoting wealth but not to a conventional gender mean, it's beyond the typical picture of how we envision the wealthiest of the world/ cooperate aesthetic and how they chose to appear publicly.

Postmodernism or the cultural logic of late capitalism (Book)

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Jameson, Fredric, Postmodernism or the cultural logic of late capitalism, Durham, N.C. : Duke University Press, 1991

Jameson discusses the culutral logic of capatalism not only in art but in society as well and it's boom in the mid 19th century to our present day and age. He highlights that capitalism as an economical and political system has changed over time when it comes to the base of the material and market and how we view it. This book uses effective artistic references through different mediums such as film, archeture, fine arts and literature, which highlights the powerful inventions that forms of creativity that was invented under our current system of capitalism. He also used Warhol as a major referencing factor of art beginning engaging in a commercial market. 

Once, again I believe that individualism that comes from capitalism is profoundly great and a power human innovation that's helpful, motivation and liberating in so many different ways. However, enhancing it is essential to those who suffer from economical shifts caused by banks and governments and not always "individual". I believe that capitalism is more effective as a system compared to socialism or communism, but elements of it is extremely harsh and it can cause so much corruption in the world. The inequality and the 1% that's cultivated from harsh capitalism has to be addressed regardless of how complex it is. Nevertheless, I wish to reference this contextual theory and book into my book to develop it further critically.

Chalayan F/W 2018

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Chalayan F/W 2018

This latest collection by Hussein Chalayan is very influential to the first element of my publication that's meant to showcase wealth before the shift of class occurs after personas I will create get bankrupt. 

The elegance and avant-garde status that is connoted from the head piece and the jacket is something I aim to channel with the garments in my publication. I want to highlight status and the cooperate world but not in a literal form, meaning that I don't aim or wish to make my models dress up in a typical tuxedo or a dinner dress in a luxurious living room of some sort. Instead, I want to gather a garment that has an element of inspiration from that status with a touch of androgyny as well. Which why I would consider the coat that was displayed at Chalayan's F/W 2018 show to be the appropriate styling choice for my shoot. And, I wish to create a headpiece that's slightly inspired by this plastic piece that Chalayan chose for his look. As part of my creative direction, I plan to construct and control each look and piece that's showcased in the publication and crediting this essential source of influence is a must. 

FALL 2018 READY-TO-WEAR Chalayan

Collectivism After Modernism (Book)

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Sholette, Gregory; Stimson, Blake, Collectivism after modernism : the art of social imagination after 1945,Minneapolis, Minn. : University of Minnesota Press, 2007.

The opposite of capitalism and the most well known revival/system was communism which was rooted in Marxism philosophy and collective thought. On the topic of the financial crash people thought it was the end of capitalism, but what could've replaced capitalism around that time that would an interesting factor. Could a balanced form of socialism and capitalism be introduced globally ? 

This book helped me develop a more in depth contextual research on the social alternatives of capitalism and how it's as harmful as the current issues that we face and even worse. The focus of this book is not only to highlight the political struggles that we face as artists but as individuals in general. All around the world from European, the US, Middle East, Africa. Sholette discuses the act of colletivism and it's pressuring factors whether it's politicial, religious or even economical. So much of collectivism is about comformitty, which is the farest thing from human liberation and uniqueness. The restriction of self-expression within a collectivism society is the worst aspect of this idealogy in my opinion before anything else. And, other than that, once a collective country is set it's usually under a ditacorship that limits the ability to invest/trade freely and critises or form an opinion about your society. It has it's harsh way when it comes to social restriction. Of-course healthcare would be for all, and no one would starve to death or be left on the street but in the same time no one would be motivated to work harder. Or challenge their own conception about their potential. Corruption is usually a common factor of collective governing because so much of it is controlling people's minds and beliefs to main the collective system. 

A very important factor of the limiting of self expression and individuality is the purpose in life. Once people are not motivated to work or do something challenging in their lives they will become numb to their needs and feel vacant, which is a common complex human emotion. Once a person is vacant or struck in a collective society they will cope with it in different ways either through escaping it or committing crime/suicide when hopeless. Some human factors of a communist or a collective society is comforting sound like the right thing to do, but at the same time once one is starting at the full picture, you would realize that this system is a tremendous source of self-restriction and corruption. I mainly wanted to read this book for contextual and interest reasons, I wanted to go in depth with my concept and where I'm heading with this unit critically. Therefore, I do not plan to reference collectivism in my work for this unit visually, I just aimed to read into it and enrich my research practice. 

Secondary Research on Bankruptcy (Lost of Wealth) #2

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Ironically, on the website the following statement is displayed  "You can only apply for bankruptcy online. It costs £680." Which is quite amusing because how would a person who have no assets of finial backing of any sort be able to fill up for something worth 680 pounds without the expanses of the lawyer. This law is incredibly harsh is basically closing an opportunity for someone to get any funds from their bankruptcy claims. And if any law of the bankruptcy is broken one will be forced to face prosecution, which is a profiting business by itself. In that regard, I see myself referencing these realistic elements of restriction into my writing and typography experiments/conceptualizing process for this unit. 

However, whats the solution to this harmful and inhuman form of lifestyle is a completely new social system going to be the solution, is collectivism and socialism better than individualism and capitalism ? I aim to highlight the two previously mentioned elements as inspiration for my content for this project and as a form of greater depth for my research. 

Personal Bankruptcy

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Source: American Bankruptcy Institute

This graph provided by the America bankruptcy institute highlights the personal fillings for bankruptcy in the United States from 1980 until 2016. And, expectedly, the highest bankruptcy fillings were during the great global financial recession in 2008. This study showcases a data on personal bankruptcy, which is an on going process that people relay on when they're on great debt. Many people get rejected from a applying for a bankruptcy because they don't meet the financial or legal requirements needed to complete that process. Which, leaves them with no other option but to be thrown in jail, because they simply don't have assets or wealth that can cover their debt. Which makes me question deeply, why is our global capitalist system treating us so harshly ? Why is money more valuable than the soul of the human ? And the most interesting aspect of all of this is that your status as a person is never safe at any minute your wealth can shift into poverty if you didn't manage it well, or if god forbid another global economy recession happens. 

Nevertheless, I wish to highlight and cover this contextual aspect of shifting in my own work by highlighting our current harsh capitalist system and what it can do to the individual and his or her reality. Although, a new form of socialism is being activated around Europe and certain western countries that offers free healthcare, public funding and public schools they still don't cover the intensive need of survival within a safe home. But in the same time, if people are provided with everything that they want and need would they be motivated to do anything in life ? That's another social factor I aim to read about and reference on my file. 

Ben Tallon

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NETFLIX 'N' KILL Original artwork

This poster is a collage done by the Artist Ben Tallon for Netflex's 'N' Kill, which poster connotes political tension and daring humor that's set to be uncomfortable and descriptive to the viewer, I believe. When I saw this poster visually, I was strongly inspired by it especially when I would start creating political collages that would enhance the visual and conceptual aspect of this economically heavy context that I'm working with.

Superflex, The Financial Crisis, 2009

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(Superflex, The Financial Crisis, 2009, Still From Video Installation, 14 minutes)

This is a film that I decided to reference from my political and economical research for the global financial crisis that occurred in 2008 and how it was address through art. I was greatly inspired by this film in particular because it emphazises undescribable worrieness coming from an individual with a close up shot that highlights the tension even more. The techincally and context behind this paticular piece that was referenced in the book I previously mentioned "It's the politicial economy, stupid." is something that I aim to link back to and experiment with throughout my process for this unit. 

It's The Politicial Economy, Stupid (Book)

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(Ressler, Oliver; Sholette, Gregory, It's the political economy, stupid : the global financial crisis in art and theory, London : Pluto Press, 2013)

This book was a key factor for conceptualizing of the political and social commentary of my project. Its highlights and discuses the global financial crisis of 2008, the role it played/the way it effected the economy and art. The author of the book also claims that "And its here that we should start to worry- not only about economic consequences of the meltdown, but about the obvious temptation to reinvigorate war on terror and US interventionism in order to keep the economy running". meaning that capitalism can lead people to desperation in terms of earning many in any sense whether it,s in war from selling weapons or taking resources. 

This book highlights the political tension that I'm analyzing for this unit, which is circulating around the financial crisis that occurred in 2008. It inspired me to read more about the topic and conceptualize it for my project through visuals and text. And, I plan to reference so many of the films in the book to my work and research. 

Tate Talk

Location research

Primary Research (Plastic Bags and trash)

(Primary Research) (Velvet, silk)

Primary Research (Texture)

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Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2019 Menswear Collection

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Look 37, Look 38

makeup @ vibskov ss18

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Erwin Wurm, One Minute Sculpture, 1998

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(Connotation Of Wealth) (Location) Primary Research

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Rottingdean Bazaar AW17

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Gareth Pugh F/W 2015

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Riots, cheap materials in a couture technique to highlight crafts men. 

Blasphemy : art that offends (Book)

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Plate, S. Brent, 1966-, Blasphemy : art that offends, Black Dog Publishing, (2006)

Depiction of suicide In Pop Culture and Fashion

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(Paparazzi, Directed by Jonas Åkerlund, Written by Lady Gaga and Jonas Åkerlund, 2009)

Mouchette, 1967 (Historical Reference)

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Mouchette by Robert Bresson, 1967

Symbolism of death through the use of film

Why suicide ? (Primary Research) (Questionnaire) for Unit 7 (Description)

This short text contains a description of the primary questionnaire that I completed, asking several individuals about their thoughts on suicide and the causes behind it. I aim to picture and envision visuals that reflect on the answers that are mentioned on the short video, and link them to the first investigation of my visuals which is political, social and economical within it's core. 

Investigating the Relationship Between Social and Economic Policy Views, Firearm Ownership, and Death by Firearm in a Sample of Suicide Decedents (Research On Suicide)

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(Archives of Suicide Research, Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3, Sarah E. Butterworth , B.S.,Claire Houtsma , B.S.,Joye C. Anestis , Ph.D. &Michael D. Anestis , Ph.D, Pages 420-431 | Accepted author version posted online: 20 Jul 2017, Published online: 05 Oct 2017)

This study and graph is the contextual source that I wanted to analyze and link to greatly with this project. After looking up several suicide researches and cases that are based off mental illness and emotional distress for unclear reasons, I was finally able to find a contextual source that points at the social, economical, and political reasons I want to investigate behind suicide. Because, I personally believe that suicide is also reflective on external factors in our world and climate that harmful, and they're not always internal as some of the other studies have listed. We are as individuals in my opinion reflect and react strongly to our surroundings and societies. And, our reactions are not always coherent or rational we act out of order and we commit the most vile things for our own existence, such as suicide, crime, drugs etc... This study shows a data and analysis of the opinions, social and economical thoughts of the suicide attempters. It clearly highlight their political beliefs by stating if they're liberals or conservatives, their age, gender, race. living costs, employment status etc.. Which contextually develops and links to my opinion of suicide caused by external factors of our society and not just internal mental disorders. This study also discusses and studies the issue of gun control in the US to suicide.

I aim to develop this effective study into my work contextually and visually. By recording primary imagery of individuals that struggle with a capitalist harsh life or a collective pressure that kills their individuality and sense of expression, which can cause emptiness. Nevertheless, this study is the most effective out of the previous ones I've done and I plan to develop this particular concept further into my publication and project. 

Bibliography:

https://www-tandfonline-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/doi/full/10.1080/13811118.2017.1355287

The Art Of Suicide (Book)

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Death (Book) (The aesthetics and methods of death through different forms)

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Ades, Dawn; Charnley, Clare, 1949-; Kite, Roger; Lloyd, Richard; Purdue, Freya; Cambridge Darkroom;Kettle's Yard Gallery., Death, Cambridge : Cambridge Darkroom : (1988)

This book doesn't directly link to my concept but it helps me visualise the aesthetics of a certain part of it. 

 

Allen Ginsberg Reading Howl (Beat Poetry)

Weary ( Song Lyrics) (Political and social view point on racial and economical struggle)

[Verse 1]
I'm weary of the ways of the world
Be weary of the ways of the world
I'm weary of the ways of the world

[Refrain 1]
I'm gonna look for my body, yeah
I'll be back like real soon
I'm gonna look for my body, yeah
I'll be back like real soon
I'm gonna look for my body, yeah
I'll be back like real soon

[Bridge]
But you know that a king is only a man
With flesh and bones, he bleeds just like you do

- Weary by Solange (2016)

This song is highly political and economical and touches on so many factors of our world that unprivileged folks of any sort experience on daily basis and throughout their lifetimes. It's a warning, Solange is warning those who understand and share her perspective about the world and it's social/political injustices mainly to people of color from economic inequality, poverty and the justice system. The lyrics she wrote challenge our common understanding of our system and how it treats individuals that are not privileged financially or racially. 

Analyze a bit of the lyrics and link them to your perspective and understanding of it. And mention how it influenced you. 

Collective and political view on society being pressuring

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Bernard, Jay, 1988, Dysphoria collective. Issue 2, Jan 2017. Respectability : race/class, [Dysphoria Collective], (2016)

Robert Morris, Untitled 1965, reconstructed 1971

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Would you do it in metal or plaster ?

Heroin Chic (1997) (Historical Reference)

Elie Saab Couture Fall 2016

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Elie Saab Couture Fall 2016

As part of my research for the first part of my publication that's meant to connote wealth, I started looking at couture shows and decided to reference a few who I wish to highlight in my publication. Velvet and silk are in my opinion very effective fabrics that showcases someone's status immediately. And as expected and known these two fabrics are tend to be a common choice for designers to do when they're creating haute couture piece targeting certain people from certain social/political statuses. Blue Velvet, is equally as romanticized as silk in my opinion, and I was recently inspired by the Elie Saab Fall couture Fall 2016 collection that he designed and a permanent color and textile choice that was shown repeatedly in the collection is velvet, and that's why I decided to reference this particular show to indicate my inspirational factor of velvet highlighting wealth as a social status through fashion. 

(Guy Bourdin) Classism, hightlighting the glamorization of wealth in fashion photography.

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Mistress and maid, Guy Bourdin, 1977

The objectification of wealth was always a topic in fashion communication that's highly glamorizing, even to harsh factors of capitalism. The shoot highlighting a fetish that's curated within the contrast of two social statuses one of the mistress and the other is from the maid, which is purely rooted in the history of western capitalism. In the imagery a shift of social roles can be seen with the maid tying the mistresses shoe and then the mistress tying the maid's shoes in the other shot. Which to me highlights a create factor of social shifts in our societies which are driven purely by money, one day if the maid became wealthy enough she could become a mistress and if the mistress lost all her power which is backed by her money she could be subjected to being a maid herself. There's no doubt that this shoot is highly glamorizing a job that many people of lower middle class loathe and consider soul destroying to their potential and dreams. That factor of glamorizing an element or a thing that's destructive in fashion is going to be the next topic I aim to research for my publication. Heroin Chic is the perfect example that i can think of and aim to research and take further for my publication's narrative. 

I aim to construct some sort of a social commentary highlighting harsh capitalism while showcasing wealth and privilege within a particular space and time, with a bigger context that's linked to my previous researches on our global financial system.

(Connotion of wealth and status through fashion commuincation) Steven Klein And Edward Enninful

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Dolce & Gabbana’s silk satin bodysuit and silk dress (on chair) shot by Steven Klein and styled by Edward Enninful.

So much of Steven Klein's aesthetic when it comes to fashion communication and photography, in my opinion, is dark or strongly glamorized classical sense. Similar to Guy Bourdin's photography, Klein's aesthetic and style of photography is mainly conventional for gender roles and main stream demands specially from dominating fashion brands such as, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Dior etc... 

Therefore, I thought that he was the perfect example to reference for my first shoot which would be slightly different, I aim to connote wealth and class in the same way that he does for most of his shots, but I do not wish to make my models gender conforming by particular garments of aesthetic. I aim to equalize blend the two gender together to rebel against the conventional status of fashion photography that's pushed by mainstream fashion brands. Nevertheless, I thought that this shoot and his aesthetic is essential for me to reference a certain class for my publication. 

The styling of the D&G pieces in the shoot by Edward Enninful includes a high end tux with a lingerie piece that includes stockings as accessories which is again a very conventional choice of clothing, but yet still it highlights wealth, power and a certain corporate status very well, which is why I chose to reference this aesthetic closely to what I'm going to gather for my publication. 

Warrior Stance Out-of-this-world fashion claws its way into the limelight.

(Terry Richadson) Eating, comfort and a priviled meal

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Vogue Japan, July 2011, Lindsey Wixson eating Spaghetti shot by Terry Richardson, edited by George Cortina and styled by Recine and Frank B.

This shot was clearly meant to poke fun at fashion as an industry by making a model who be typically known as a figure that usually starves to stay fit in publications and shows, eat an entire bowl of spaghetti is quite humorous. And, linking my point back to my research file for part 2 in where I referenced Isabella Blow's shoot for cooking in couture for my Celebrating Archway project, she used a contrasting element of social status by cooking in couture, which is not a common practice visually. I believe, the a similar element of a juxtaposition is shown here as well with the model stuffing her face with spaghetti while wearing a couture Mugler gown. 

Moreover, this shoot links to the first element of my publication which is meant to highlight wealth and social status before the crash of the economy. To be this shoot is dripping in privilege from it's meal, props and model. Therefore, I decided to consider the idea of referencing this particular shoot for my publication and set. However, if I decided to reference the act of eating of drinking in my first element of the publication it would be used for a morbid or suicidal downfall from some of the individuals reaction to the financial crash that would effect their lives harshly. 

Terry Richardson Shoots Lindsey Wixson Eating... Again

How to Improve Capitalism

The Big Short (2015)

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The Big Short directed by Adam McKay (2015) 

This film strongly highlights the global financial recession that occurred in 2008 with depth and effective coverage. It shows how the real life based characters in the film reacted and coped with the crash. The sources of the crash which are mainly caused by morgage deals and unpaid credits are clearly justified from the begging of the film. I thought the film was very informative contextually and visually representative of the cooperate environment that caused so much of the chaos that the world faced a few years ago. The dialogue of the film is also something that I find very inspiring to the way I write poems and texts for my publications and I plan to develop it even further by channeling the source of painful language that was repeatedly explored in the film. 

The political theory of POSSESIVE INDIVIDUALISM (Book)

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Macpherson, C. B. (Crawford Brough), 1911-1987; Cunningham, Frank, 1940, The political theory of possessive individualism,Don Mills, Ont. Oxford University Press, 2011. 

One can not discuss the dominating aspect of capitalism and it's influence without mentioning the ideology of individualism. So, in terms of social and political theory I decided to develop my research further by investigating the history and impact of the movement that contributed to our global capital societies of today. C.B. Macpherson was a professor of political economy at the University of Toronto, and published several books about democracy and social/ political matters. This book discusses the notion of individualism in a classical liberal sense titled as "possessive quality", which motivates people to achieve systematic goals for their own individual objectives. The book states that the essence of freedom lies on the independence of nothing but your own capital/wealth. The book argues that society is more than economic relations rooted in property. He believes that the idea of individualism is rooted in human rights, democracy and so much more than capital owning/controlling so much of what we do and our system. The intellectual case behind this book addressees the history of our current system and it's impact on our ideals of freedom. 

Personally, I agree with this book greatly in terms of it's core ideals of liberalism and individualism. I think that the freedom of the society comes under the notion of individualism. So ideologically I think it's the most effective systematic form of politics that has been created so far. However, they're harsh economical aspects of it that circulating around capital and power. If a crash happened like the one that occurred in 2008 capitalism becomes a nightmare and life becomes a matter of survival. Which challenges the notion of freedom that individualism offers, once one is restricted financially and economically he or she is nothing in society with no rights or power which automatically shifts down your liberation within a nation. Economical individualism is very pressuring to maintain, specially since in some countries like the US healthcare and other public forms of socialism is capitalized heavily, which makes an individual suffers if they can't offered their basic need of a healthy being. I aim to highlight this social and economical matter further by investigating it in depth and compare it to the opposite ideal of collectivism that was the main starting point of communism in recent history.

Secondary Research on Bankruptcy (Lost of Wealth) #1

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Source: (https://www.gov.uk/bankruptcy)

As part of my research for the shifts of wealth and the harshness of our capitalists economies. I decided to witness the actual process myself of filling for bankruptcy by visiting the website and regulations that guide you through filling, and ironically there are a few things that I witnessed which were a mixture of both ironic and comforting, and I aim to highlight these points further in my (Secondary Research on Bankruptcy (Lost of Wealth) #2) analysis. 

Corporate Bankruptcy

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Source: American Bankruptcy Institute

This is a graph that highlights fillings of cooperate business/ banks for bankruptcies from 1980 until 2016, and as expected the highest requests to fill were around two recessions the 1980s recession and the 2008 global financial recession. Bankruptcy is such a double standard form of helping within any capitalist society. It tends to rescue cooperations more than individuals. A perfect example for this situation is when the Great Recession happened banks were getting bailed off immediately by the government and were filling for immersive bankruptcy orders and got funded and protected by them. However, other individuals especially wealthy or higher middle class were not able to cover up their debt and they were faced by very harsh/restrictive regulations that can harm their future and the future of their precsidors (children). I aim to compare this study with a personal bankruptcy and experience the actual process myself by getting into the official UK government website (https://www.gov.uk/bankruptcy) and see the process and requirements for filling a bankruptcy and view it as a financially struggling individual. 

Bankruptcy Isn't for Everyone. Maybe It Should Be.

The World's Gross Demostic Product during the Financial Crisis

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Source: The Economist

The world's gross demostic product, which means "the monetary value of all the finished goods and services produced within a country's borders in a specific time period" went to it's all time low since the great depression in the 1920s. The entire world was effected by this crisis and the only way these banks coped with their diasters was to either declare bankruptcy or ask their governments to bail them out. But the ones who were truly effected by this are the ones who paid for morgages and invested all their assets in banks. But, maintaining all of their savings to get higher interests and protecting their assets (homes, cars, businesses etc..) by banks only made their situations worse, because the banks lost everything and the entire system crashed down, which made their investments go with the end. However, that created a bigger problem other than people committing suicide and being thrown in jail for not being able to pay their debts, many of them ended up jobless and in poverty. Which ultimately made the entire power of the economy shift more to the 1%, and the rest of the people aren't able to contribute to the economy at all. 

The 2008 global financial crisis, is the most effective example of how harsh and ineffective capitalism can be to human kind. The mortgage and credit crisis turned into a global financial crisis, which caused a recession in all businesses and the shut down of several banks such as, Merrill Lynch, AIG, Freddie Mac, Fannie Mae, HBOS, Royal Bank of Scotland, Bradford & Bingley, Fortis, Hypo and Alliance & Leicester etc.. (that declared bankruptcy). When people can't afford their needs, it becomes impossible for them to afford their wants, which causes the economy to suffer greatly. 
 
Eventually, I plan to reference all of these struggles in my publication through, visuals that connote wealth and poverty as well text/fashion. 

Melanie Gilligan: Crisis in the Credit System, Episode 1 (2008)

Before And Aftermath Of The 2007-2008 Financial Crisis

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(Source: Bloomberg, FDIC; banks' annual and interim reports)

This is an analytical graph provided by Bloomberg's which discussed the starting point and inspiration I have for this unit, which based off the global financial crisis/recession and the shift of wealth that can happen within a second if someone's business of the economy collapsed. The analysis show's the United states bank profits dropped to -25b, which is partly because of their fraudlent morgage and credit deals that fooled buyers from different classes and backgrounds. Europe and the UK, also faced a harsh shift and a collapsing economy that went down to below -50b! The study is quite interesting because it highlights the global impact of that financial crisis that turned out to be global and not local. From personal experience and see the recession and the after math of it growing up I decided to touch on the issue of the shift of wealth and our oppressive capitalist global system. 

I aim to create a visual narrative inspired by the real events of the financial crisis and how it effected people and the way they dealt/ coped with it differently. Although this study is highly contextual I might take visual elements from it as a reference for a shoot or a visual experiment through photography or photoshop.