(Layout and typography reference) Paper Magazine
(Kali Uchis shot by Damien Maloney and styled by Ashley Guerzon for Paper Magazine, 2018)
As I was researching Layouts and typography fonts for my photo-story and film, I got captured by this latest issue by Paper magazine, which has a similar direction in terms of layout and setting to the style I wish to display my photo-story with. Even the glamorous yet simple pastel aesthetic of the styling on Kali is in and the pastel pink set of the minimal props the symbolize wealth is another factor that I can connect with visually other than just the layout.It appears that Paper Magazine still continues to use it's iconic Bold text all across the cover, which does not take any attention away from the content and power/seduction of the image. And that's why I decided to reference this particular layout in my file, because I aim to use bold typography mainly Mini Pro Similar to the typography used in this cover and SURFACE magazine, to communicate texts about my imagery and the title of the publication, which is "JAYUNCLAD IN CHANGEMENTS COMMUS".
(J.W Anderson Campaign) layout and aesthetic of publication
(J.W Anderson Campaign, 2018)
This latest publication and campaign booklet released by J.W Anderson's brand is profoundly captivating, with its minimal layout and bold typography and even the imagery in it highlights a sophisticated and androgynous collection that's clearly targeting liberal youth. I find the layout and typography of this campaign inspiring and I wish to reference it to my work in my own terms. Although, the imagery in his campaigns publication is not linked to mine at all, I still took a technical inspiration from the way the imagery is layed out and minimal element of communication that's shown in this booklet which does not distract from the power of the photographs and what's in them. And the way his name and logo is displayed across the image is another factor I wish to link to when I'm adding typography to my imagery.
(Surface Magazine Cover, 2018) Typography Reference and technical inspiration
(Solange Covers Surface Magazine's January/February Issue)
The Cover of the surface Magazine contains a strong bold typography with mini bold black titles. The image is placed in the corner of the cover. It's settle and aesthetically appealing as well. What's capturing my attention mainly within the cover is the look and styling of Solange which shines brightly through the entire layout. Solange is styled on the issue to channel his own cultural pride within the editorial, which is another element I aim to highlight in the styling of my first photo-shoot styling.
The layout of this cover in particular inspired me immensely. I had to mention the cover of this editorial as a reference in my sketchbook as I planned to produce something that connects to it greatly. Although, I don't plan to directly merge a bold text in an image of my outcome, I still took influence from the bold and neat typography of this publication regardless, that would make the minimal aesthetic of my imagery and project stand out better.
(Florian Hetz) Visual And Conceptual Reference for my shoot.
(Florian Hetz, SHOWstudio, 2018)
Showstudio released a series of images by the photographer Florian Hetz which highlights lust, impulse and desperation through the human form only. No props or garments were used in the shoot, which made the emotions and symbols that comes from them stand out solidly throughout the entire set of images. I selected this image to reference because it's the one that links to my publication visually the most, which connotes pain and desperation through someone's eye. Although desperation is highlighted differently from my concept which is about economical and financial shifts/oppression and hers is mainly about sexual desperation and sensuality which comes from impulse, I was still able to develop her influence into my visualization and conceptual process of my photographs. Technically, the way he edited the images is not my approach at all for this publication, considering that I'm going to blur all of the images and clips by photographing through a screen to create a particular vintage and unconventional visual aesthetic in fashion photographs/communication that's not highlighted around perfectionism for the viewer and the publication.
(Age Of Collage) Technicality Of Image Making in My Publication
(Busch, Dennis; Hellige, Hendrik; Klanten, Robert; Krohn, Silke; Lindberg, Steven. The Age Of Collage, 2013)
The Age Of Collage is a secondary source (book) I researched primarily at the Central Saint Martins library for technical references. I looked at several artists in the book such as the two pages I chose to reference on top of the both collage artists Aneta Grezeszykowska and Jan Smaga and how their technical approach work with collage is displayed so effectively on the book, because of it's minimal and neat geometrical and white spreads. From a technical perspective I aim to experiment with collage and develop some of my visual experiments further into my outcome which is going to be a photo-story with an accompanying film. I aim to reference this book technically in my sketchbook to further develop my research and my practical experiments as I create more imagery for my publication.
(Carlota Guerrero) (Casting reference) Diversity within experience and casting and technical reference
Carlota Guerrero, 2018)
What caught my attention the most out of this shoot, and inspired me is the diversity of the models and their individual experiences being depicted as one. The models are depicted in a a diversity and inclusive position of display centering as the key factor of the image, one asian, the other is caucasian and the third one is middle eastern/orient, which shows a diverse set of representation that I want for my photo-shoot and publication as well. I want to highlight how in harsh capitalist society we're all treated the same when we don't have any financial backing or privilege. If we can't produce and maintain wealth regardless of our skin colors, we're still not worth anything within our materialism day and age.
Even the faded noise technicality and bright less contrasted tones of editing in her imagery inspired my technical approach to this unit at times, but technically it's not a dominate visual influence on my editing. However, I decided to add an edit that she technically uses a lot titled faded film into my publication to respond to her work and technique more into my own practice.
Robert Morris, 'Untitled' 1969 (Installaion Minimalism)
Robert Morris, 'Untitled' 1969
Robert Morris is an artist I referenced earlier in my file, but over a different piece, which is minimal and geometrical that I was inspired by in the beginning of my research cycle. However, as the project progressed visually and contextually, I feel like this particular piece is more interactive and links more to the installation I plan to do more for my shoot as a prop more than the previous piece I referenced by him. The Untitled piece he did in 1969 that I choose to reference as a strong linking point to my own installation for the first photo-shoot I'm planning for which to symbolize wealth through a minimal set and selected props such as, silk, blue velvet, red wine etc.. The piece I referenced above visually shows a range of slashed pieces of fabric in where the installation is layed down smoothy, but still soft, sharp and organized between the edges. I aim to reference this minimal installation into my own project for this unit to highlight wealth in the first part of my photo-shoot in doors within a minimal space and set.
(Styling Influence) Creative Direction Approach
Raf Simons S/S 2003 ‘CONSUMED’ n)
In terms of brand image and campaigning Raf Simons is a creative director that Involves his urban and minimalistic aesthetic into every project he's working on. I found this look by him extremely inspirational in terms of the minimal and deconstructed style of layout that he has styled with, I aim to reference his style of design in my own styling process for my shoot. Raf's artistic direction of Dior is something that I'm fond of because unlike other creative directors that took control of luxurious brands such as Balmain and Balenciaga, Simons managed to refresh the image of the brand in a form that doesn't neglect it's reputation and value to the public and the loyal customers of the brand. He decided to collaborate with rappers and pop cultural icons that are considered artistic and creative which only adds up to the reputation and prestige of the brand.
His S/S 2003 show "Consumed" in where he used the contemporary idea of concealment in his show to connote an artistic narrative that's purely about identity within our current capitalist societies, which is completely different compared to the commercial designs he used to produce for Dior in order to sell when he was their creative director. He is definitely more experimental with color, texture concepts and props/materials when it comes to his own fashion house. Mainly I like the way he used leather in a slashed and worn out silhouette, and other consumed objects such as cigarette boxes to be part of the styling. And, to make a statement about how fast pitched and low cultured capitalism is making our stands in the fashion industry and consumerism overall. I aim to reference his form of styling in my two up coming photo-shoots for my publication, which will critique capitalism but from a different view point.
self study 2016-2017
(Layout and Poses Reference) Cesar Brodermann (Inspiration poses and highlighting desperation)
(Cesar Brodermann, restrainment created by distance, 2016)
Caser's Work is in depth connected to the limitations of the human body and loneliness/desperation. His performance films are visually delicate and minimal, making his form the main focus and subject of which performance film he puts out. The model in the film is stretching and restricting his own body in order to liberate his form, pain and desperation can be spotted in his expression. He wanders around the ground trying to break free, and by the end as his body is slowly getting unstrained as he stands up and moves freely. I aim to reference some of the poses he conceptualized for his short film and develop it into my own theme of social pressure and desperation.
(Casar Brodermann, Self study 2016-2017)
This film/ short clip is very strong visually, in my opinion, it's intrigued in performance art and film, which is something that captures my attention immediately. Posing in symbolic forms to express a series of emotions such as pain, loneliness, desperation and restriction can clearly be seen in this piece. And I'm inspired by the contrasting mixture of delicate visuals with aggressive or restricted movements with the piece, and from a technical viewpoint, I think that the way he layed out the two films next two each other within a contain landscape and framed space is visually more interactive for a viewer to see and connect with. In that regard, this piece inspired me tremendously to include expression through the human form and a squared/repetitive shape of sequence as the main subject of the film.
(Technical Research For Space And Tones) (Textures Minimal Set)
Abdulaziz Almudhaf is a Kuwaiti born and based Visual Artist. His work is delicate and visually capturing. The piece I chose to reference is untitled, he divided the canvas with two completely different ways of painting, visually and technically. On the left a mixture of various tones and can be seen of grey, black, dark green and white. And on the right there's a flat tone of pastel pink that's creates a delicate juxtaposition that captures one’s visual ability immediately.
Visual art is my main source of inspiration for the first part of my photoshoot, and narrative for the publication. And I aim to highlight wealth in the first part of my publication. but through minimalism and symbolism not conventional and literal luxury. His work inspires me to think about the tones of my set and space for the first shoot, I'm wondering if the space should be white and grey or a bit more experimental with pastel tones, such as blue or red, which are symbols already highlighted as props in the shoot (Blue Velvet) (Red White). I can still see the resemblance between his work and the German painter Gurther Forg’s work, and that's why I decided to reference them both in my file as a contemporary and historical reference for my visual approach to the set.
(Set Up And Installation Reference) Room of hanging coats jannis kounellis ‘untitled’
(Room of hanging coats jannis kounellis ‘untitled’, London, 2010, courtesy of sprovieri gallery)
This minimal set and piece by Jannis Kounellis inspired me greatly. It showcases more than 10 coats being ganged in a contained white space, which visually contrasts with the black coats. There's a haunting presence in this piece, in my opinion. It could connote the presence objects that we once owned being still where we placed them, while we are not on this earth yet. I assume this piece has an element of commentary about death and loss of human presence.
Visually, I'm thinking about linking my props for the first shoot which connote wealth within a minimal white pace that can make the objects stand out and communicate their symbolism stronger in the same way that Janis did in this piece.
(Primary Visit) (Styling Reference) Lakin Orgunbanwo, Technicality in photography-close-ups (Elements of Social status African Wealth Styling)
(Lakin Orgunbanwo, Somerset House, 2017)
Lakin Orgubanwo, is a Nigerian artist. His main artistic medium is fashion photography and communication. He's a fairly young artist that's breaking through the African and Western art scene. Visually, he uses a very commercialized sense of aesthetic when he approaches his work, by selecting a white background and fully focusing on the garment of prop of the shoot with the human form. He experiments usually with the pieces/ props he tries to showcase in his work including body paint. In the photograph attached on top, I believe, he was trying to achieve a combination of mixing an African aesthetic, mainly, Nigerian or Egyptian with a westernized fashion element, in order to supply the commercial market with an exciting combination of culture and fashion photography while communicating wealth from a perspective that's not western in terms of styling.
I discovered his work during my visit to the an exhibition called "1:54 Contemporary African Art Fair at the Somerset house in London, United Kingdom. His artistic passion is about combing African culture with westernized fashion mediums in order to create a contemporary outcome that's blended in both. He also touches on the idea of obscurity and wealth a lot in his work. After learning and connecting to his work visually I decided to reference his style of traditional African styling into my own process, I wanted to highlight wealth from a perspective that's not western with my styling for this headpiece. So, I decided to wrap a piece of silky polyester in an African inspired style and circulating the plaster prop I created in the casting workshop around it.
(Primary Reference of Own Styling influence head-piece on Silky Polyester wrap)
(Styling Reference) Alexander McQueen's Working Process and use of trash creativily
(Head pieces that link to his conceptual inspiration from trash)
(Alexander McQueen, Working Process, by Waplington, 2015)
This book contains some of the most inspirational pieces created by McQueen up to date that highly reflect on my concept and especially the second aspect/part of my publication, which connotes poverty and adapting to it. In terms of styling McQueen used plastic bags as avant-garde headpieces that contrast with the prestigious garments that he created for his latest collection. Unlike other designers McQueen saw the beauty in trash, in lower culture and conceptualized on it greatly based of his unconventional interests. I aim to use plastic to the outdoors structured installation that I'm currently planning with silky polyester hanging from it connoting the idea of holding on to wealth or to what has gone. I will use plastic and various other props to showcase adaption to lower culture within the publication after I highlight the economical shift that's intrigued in the heart of this publication
(Alexander McQueen Summer/Spring, 1995)
McQueen's use of plastic and adaption of lower culture textures are not a contemporary trend but a historical one as he's been experimenting with several kinds of plastic textiles throughout the years, which only inspires me to test out other textures of plastic for my publication. Collections from the early and mid 1990s always appeal to my taste as a creative direction student specially in referencing. And that's why I chose this McQueen collection titled "The Birds", and his creative approach to the collection and concept behind it for the second part of my collection which highlights poverty and adapting to it. The garments of this collection are highly experimental in materials and gender representation. McQueen's punk era is the most influential and exciting aspect of the work that's he's done over the years, in my opinion.
White Chapel, (Primary Visit)
(Still shot of provision for the Homeless 2017) (Andrea Luka Zimmerman, Civil Rities, Film, sound, 2017)
This was a film supported with an audio that I witnessed at heard at the White Chapel Gallery. The film was highly linked to my concept and criticized the way capitalism degrades individuals and their own experience in life. The film was haunting and interactive, it made feel like I was present in the film while she was narrating it. I wish to develop the elements of poverty that she discussed and highlighted in her film and spoken word piece, by writing a piece linked to it myself. And, the technicality of the film also was meant to have a raw and authentic feel to how the camera was not centered to a particular angle and was documented organically as well as saturated tones of black and white being interlinked with blurred tones of green and purple as the film fades.
(Shift Of Wealth) Eric N. Mack, Implied Desire
(Eric N. Mack, Implied Reebok or Desire for The Northeast Groover 2016)
This installation by Mack is very visually appealing my opinion. It's set in a minimal and contemporary sense, garments that are worn are displayed connoting a dysfunctional status of being that's highlighting emptiness and disruption.
(Eric N. Mack, Wide Necklace , 2017)
This other installation done by Eric N. Mack was constructed a year after the first installation piece I referenced by him "Implied Reebok or Desire for The Northeast Groover" So much of his minimalism layout in installations reminds me of an artist I referenced previously by the name of Robert Morris. The element of constructing and deconstructing that he curates is visually narrating to status and wealth in my opinion. The main difference between what he does and what Morris does so all highlighted under their choice of fabrics, Eric uses cheap fabrics that are deconstructed in a sense that highlights a particular social status that's not privileged. Unlike Robert's aesthetic which has become glamorized in high culture, because of it's appealing layout and expensive materials.
(Provoking And Contrasting Concept) (Influence) Haute Couture Dior in 2000
(Haute Couture Dior in 2000 by John Galiano)
This collection designed by John Galiano back when he was the creative director of Dior was highly controversial from it's display to the inspiration behind the collection. The Haute Couture show which is directly targeted to upper class societies and consumers appeared to be appropriating and making a mockery out of the homeless people of streets, mainly in Paris. The collection is clearly inspired by lower culture in a form that glamorizes and depicts it as a glamours look that should be adapted into a trend. Critics were outraged by the show at the time, and many Haute consumers were disappointed be the infamous collection and show. Sewn Cans, oversized worn-out and deconstructed garments were all visually linked back to his source of inspiration.
I decided to reference this show, because it highlights the the gradual shift of my publication from wealth to poverty, and after seeing some of the garments in this particular collection, I thought about customizing a garment inspired the oversized and worn out structure he created. However, it's too symbolic and figurative, so I'm not sure about directly tiring this look into my second photo-shoot setting for my publication. I aim to re-produce something that's slightly inspired by this referenced collection by him.
Crushed by STONES
(Crushed by STONES by Dexter Lander 2018)
This a photograph taken by a fashion photographer named "Dexter Lander". I discovered this image on instragram while I was researching contemporary references for my project who are linked to my discipline. And I was very inspired and captured by this particular image he released.
The image highlights and showcases a male model on a dirty ground yard with a colorful garment that looks cheap and worn out, the model is clearly suffering and experiencing some sort of desperation as I assume. The styling of the look is quite contrasting to the environment that's in, not the texture and materials of the garment, but just the colors and tones of the makeup, hair style and garment.
I aim to develop this particular aesthetic of outdoors desperation into my second photo-shoot for this publication, which links to adapting to desperation and harsh capitalism/poverty after a social shift and a previous privileged experience. However, I want my outdoors shoots to be more expressive with props and a different angle that's mainly focused on the bottom of the ground instead of the top corner.
White Cube, Mason's Yard, Memory Palace (Primary Visit)
(Ibrahim Mahama, Old trailer and harbour sheet, metal tags on charcoal sacks, 2014–2016) (Doris Salcedo Disremembered IX, Sewing needles and silk thread, 2017)
Primary images taken by me at the White Cube, Mason's Yard, Memory Place (2018)
These are primary photographs that I took at the White Cube, Mason's Yard, Memory Palace which is an inclusive exhibition that displays the work of 40 contemporary artists. This exhibition that I attended is purposely meant to lead me to historical factors that highlight, class, race and politics through the expression of fine arts. I was aesthetically inspired by the gallery and pieces greatly. The first piece I referenced "Ibrahim Mahama, Old trailer and harbour sheet, metal tags on charcoal sacks, 2014–2016" inspired me tremendously specially after I learnt the context behind it, which is how crisis and failure are absorbed into this material with a strong reference to global transaction and how capitalist structure work, the piece is contextually tied to what I'm doing with my concept greatly. I aim to create an installation inspired by the piece but the other way around, instead of connoting the oppression of capitalism through worn out fabric, I wish to highlight the privilege of capitalism by using a silky fabric that connotes the wealthy aspects of our unfair global system that can shift at any moment. The exhibition was filled with politically charged pieces that I found inspiration with it's minimalism and story telling. I plan to visit the other exhibition at Bermondsey, which is about collectively and the idea of sensory, in order to complete my full experience from the exhibition. And I hope to find pieces that will enrich the content of my project aesthetically and contextually.
(Connotation Of Wealth) (Location) Primary Research
These are two primary images I took myself when I was walking down the street to reflect on the harsh capitalist society that we live in which could make individuals end up in unlivable circumstances just because they're unable to keep up with the system of individualism. Of course, I don't believe that socialism or communism will cure of make a situation like this any better because poverty and homeless is found everywhere through different system and political view points. But, someone with a living condition like that would consider suicide on daily basis. I've asked several homeless people on the street if suicide is a consideration for them, some have answered me humorously with a "yes" and others didn't have the conscious to respond in a reasonable manner. But, I'm not suggesting that every homeless person or anyone who's oppressed economically is considering suicide. I'm just stating that many of them would consider it and commit it based off their terrifying realities.
(Social Experiment) Erwin Wurm, One Minute Sculpture
(Erwin Wurm, One Minute Sculpture, 1998)
This particular serious of images captured from a performance inspired my social experiments greatly. The experiment done by Erwim Wurm is set to make individuals perform within a constructed time and space. He would ask folks to pose as a sculpture for one minute during their gallery visit and then recording it through the medium of photography. I took inspiration from that element of performance and used film as an alternative medium to extend that element of experimentation through. I would give individuals objects, put them within a constructed space and tell them that they lost everything and all they have left are those objects. And I wanted to see how they would react to it.
Moreover, this performance piece by Erwin Wurn in 1998 is a profound inspirational source for the conceptual aspect behind my social experiments for this unit.
Primary Research visual experimentation with social desperation/death method #1
(Belt Chocking And Hanging, primary image)
As part of my visual research for my concept, I focused on how I can visually communicate desperation and pain through visual symbolism. So, I did quick tests of a few methods that I might develop into the desperation and pain of my publication. In this particular method, I'm tying a belt around my head and neck, which is a reaction that I'm depicting of an individual who just found out that he was bankrupt and his first reaction was to immediately and desperately self-harm.
I was mainly inspired to create this visual method after my recent read of a visual book titled, "Death, Cambridge : Cambridge Darkroom : (1988)" which is referenced on my research file.
(Primary Research) Second Social Experiment (Desperation and Numbness)
(Primary Research) First Social Experiment (Extensive Rage)
(Description) First And Second Social Experiment
The first two social experiments are in similar conditions and treatments in terms of space and time. However the experiences are portrayed differently by the individuals in them.
Their both offered limited and invaluable objects, and have been told that they're bankrupt and lost all of their properties and belongings and they have nothing except those objects that with them in a contained space, which is an idea I came up with inspired by the 3 minutes sculpture performance by Erwin Wurm.
The first experiment I was amazed by seeing the performers' reaction and hoping to her reality at first she was raging excessively, we no conscious over her surroundings and action. She was kicking and throwing anything she wanted so carelessly, suggesting the notion of her having nothing to lose. After her rage, she starts laughing loudly and happily, which was a very odd reaction that one would expect from an experiment like this. However, it did strike a point to me. That if a person is completely bankrupt within a world that's profiting and controlling us by capital, they're free and liberated from the system, which immediately releases their rage from being controlled to absolute personal liberation. She said to me after the experiment "If I lose everything, then that means I have nothing to fear or be sad about anymore.", which really influenced a particular viewing point I have for the conceptualization of this unit and the way it's content is perceived.
The second social experiment is the same exact setting and scenario of the first performance. The only difference is based off the experience of the individual. I wanted to show diversity with this concept as much as possible because we're all subjected to it any moment wether you're African, European, American, Asian, Middle Eastern etc... So, I choice an Asian male model to highlight his own experience that's different from the first model's experience. Unlike her, he was very subtle and gentle. It seemed like he was receiving and reacting to the information slowly and numbly. He took all of the objects in the center and instead of throwing and kicking them like the first model, he actually took everything to a corner and starting to conceal himself, gradually. But eventually he throw himself aggressively against the bag filled objects, suggesting desperation and tiredness. I must say, after seeing his performance, which is very linked and realistic to real experiences of people who are hopeless and bankrupt I was touched by his accurate emotional representation of the matter. His gestures and performance inspired my research, and development for the theme of this concept and how I wish to investigate it.
Alexander McQueen Interview on Charlie Rose, 1997
McQueen on Void And Desperation (Interview)
(Alexander McQueen Interview on Charlie Rose, 1997)
While I was watching interviews of people in high positions who feel a sense of desperation and pressure from capital purposes, expectedly as I was mainly researching individuals who are merged around my interest of creative direction fro fashion, I wanted to understand the purpose of suicide and desperation that others fall into, what's the reason behind it? Is it the unbelievable capitalistic and profit driven oppression that comes from the fashion industry? or is it personal matters mixed with being unsatisfied with a pressuring position/job from our current economical and political climate in life? McQueen stated during his interview with Charlie Rose when he was asked by the interviewer- "How Hard Did You Work?", and McQueen responded with "Too Hard, I don't feel like I'm enjoying myself that much, because I just work so much these days that sometimes you sit back and you wander what you're doing it for." (12:40 minute - 12:58 minute).
I immediately felt sense of desperation and pain that's caused by our global financial system and how artists are pressured to work hard and constantly being expected to make profits for their shareholders and companies. But, no one is truly looking after them, their artistry, their pain, which eventually, in my opinion, leads them to harming themselves in forms that are as intense as suicide.
I found this interview quite helpful and engaging for me to develop another secondary aspect of my research and highlight it from other people's opinions and perspectives to enhance the context and struggle of the issues that I'm researching for this unit.
The subjection of suicide in painting (Historical Reference)
(Edouard Manet - Le Suicidé, 1877)
Edouard's Le Suicidé is a historical symbol/painting I chose to reference for this unit. To this day, the narrative behind this painting is mysterious and unknown. It's left for someone's imagination to figure out and understanding the allegory behind a man that shot himself on a bed. The realistic painting showcases a man who clearly shot himself with a gun hanging across from his bed. The furniture surrounding the disputed dead human form is haunting with it's environment and emptiness.
Nevertheless, I found this painting to be an interesting historical depiction that's open to intreptuption of a subject matter that's highly sensitive and terrifying to so many of us. I might consider recreating a similar pose in the first part of my publication to how individuals react to social and economical pressure in different forms when they lose everything.
What would you do if you lost everything? (Interview + Primary Research)
What Would You Do If You Lost Everything? (Primary Research) (Questionnaire) for Unit 7 (Description)
These are a set of questions that I had for an individual who's financially supported/privileged just like myself. I had to ask her a serious of questions about becoming bankrupt. Losing all of her Wealth. And what forms of adaption would she turn to if she was ever in that situation ? Would You self-harm? Would you commit crime or just adapt to your bankruptcy with desperation and disruption?
These are the main points that I had in the interview. And her answers were fairly interesting for me to conceptualize a narrative and link more deeply to how other people would cope to that situation.
Methods of suicide and implications for suicide prevention (Research On Suicide)
Experience of Self-Harm and Its Treatment in Looked-After Young People: An Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (Research On Suicide)
(Journal, Archives of Suicide Research ,Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3, R. Wadman,M. Armstrong,D. Clarke,C. Harroe,P. Majumder,K. Sayal,P. Vostanis &E. Townsend,Pages 365-379 | Accepted author version posted online: 08 Aug 2017, Published online: 07 Sep 2017)
This is a further contextual study I gathered for my research on suicide and the causes behind it. In this graph and article the issue of self-harm related suicide cases are discussed with statistics of the two sexes (Male & Female) and the probability on their suicidal actions and thoughts. The articule I read highlights the causes of suicidal thoughts in younger people such as loneliness, misunderstanding, bullying, being unaccepted socially and other forms of social pressures that young people face. It's an interesting study that's very informative, but I don't wish to highlight or take the idea of young people committing suicide based off mental or emotional factors. I aim to highlight the concept of suicide purely based of a social or political angle that's not personal to a specific experience but to a pressure that so many individuals face and cope with differently. I plan to search more cases on this sensitive research archive that I found through the CSM library resources online. This online journal informed my practice and understanding of the matter greatly but I don't wish to develop or investigate this particular method of experience of suicide. I plan to carry on looking up articles or journal on the site that can link to the contextual aspect I want to specifically communicate for this issue.
Journal, Archives of Suicide Research ,Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3, R. Wadman,M. Armstrong,D. Clarke,C. Harroe,P. Majumder,K. Sayal,P. Vostanis &E. Townsend,Pages 365-379 | Accepted author version posted online: 08 Aug 2017, Published online: 07 Sep 2017
Secondary Research on Sucidie and Mental Illness
(Documentary, produced by American Multimedia, is about depression and suicide in adolescents,Marcus Gunn, fl. 2008)
I was watching this informative short film about suicide from an angle that's purely depressive and based off emotions, which explores and explains that psychological depth and complexity behind the act itself. To learn the signs of depression that can cause suicidal thoughts and the need to commit it to release that impulse. I got hold of this educational film through my searches on the CSM library archive online. I was able to access the film on a website titled "Alexander Street". What was the most effective part of the film that captured my interest for this project is the following statement " Instances of serious depression can be brought on by three major factors: Biological, genetic, and/or social/enviromental." Which was an interesting factor that was identified during the film. After completing the film, I plan to research further cases into this matter investigated it with contextual depth to be able to develop it further into a logical understanding and a conceptual blend, that's detached from the dark reality behind suicide and it's victims.
I believe that I can take these contextual and informative secondary sources as a form of investigating the issue for my project. And, I plan to interview others primarily to get their own perspective on suicide it's causes and why it's committed.
When the Pain Becomes Unbearable: Case-Control Study of Mental Pain Characteristics Among Medically Serious Suicide Attempters (Research On Suicide)
(Journal, Archives of Suicide Research, Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3,Y. Levi-Belz,Y. Gvion,S. Grisaru &A. Apter,Pages 380-393 | Accepted author version posted online: 08 Aug 2017, Published online: 07 Sep 2017)
This article was a further research and contextual source that I looked at to understand the depth behind the matter I chose to investigate for the beginning of my project. I read the article and analyzed the graph which highlights Emptiness, confusion, self estrangement, freezing, emotional flooding, narcissistic wounds, loss of control and irreversibility that a suicide attempter faces on daily basis. And all of those issues on the study I've noticed are highlighting internal conflict, and not social, economical or political pressures to why one would want to take his or her life. Therefore, I carried on reading the journal to investigate mental disorders mentioned that can link to a wider suicidal perspective that's not only caused by internal factors but from external ones as well. The following study and statement from the journal "“Suicide is caused by psychache.” This well-known statement of the suicidologist Shneidman (1993, p. 51) highlighted the importance of the experience of unbearable mental pain––psychache––as one of the main risk factors for suicidal behavior. Indeed, suicide is commonly described as a behavior motivated by the desire to escape from unbearable psychological pain" is in my opinion a vague generalization of mental pain. In my opinion, I believe the point that was mentioned is absolutely correct and accurate, however, it's not specific to experiences of a wider view point other than internal emotions that reflect one someone's own restrictions in society or in a financial view point. This study was a fascinating read that I agreed with strongly, but I couldn't find a clear link or cause behind these attempts from a social, political or economical viewpoint that I could develop further into my research.
Journal, Archives of Suicide Research, Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3,Y. Levi-Belz,Y. Gvion,S. Grisaru &A. Apter,Pages 380-393 | Accepted author version posted online: 08 Aug 2017, Published online: 07 Sep 2017
The Aesthetics Of Terror (Book)
Slome, Manon; Simon, Joshua, The aesthetics of terror,Milano : Charta, (2009)
This book is contextually and factually not linked to my concept. The visuals of this book are directly inspired by terrorism through different means. I was visually and simply inspired by the aesthetics of death and suicide that were highlighted and shown throughout the book. And that's why I chose to reference this book briefly on my file.
Allen Ginsberg's Howl (Literature Reference)
I saw the best minds of my generation destroyed by
madness, starving hysterical naked,
dragging themselves through the negro streets at dawn
looking for an angry fix
angelheaded hipsters burning for the ancient heavenly
connection to the starry dynamo in the machinery of the night.
- A column from Howl by Allen Ginsberg (1956)
(A response to Kaddish, Part 1 For Naomi Ginsberg, 1894-1956 by Allen Ginsberg)
Howl is a poetry book released by Allen Ginsberg in the 1956. His poetry book connotes sorrow and various struggles that individuals go through within restrictive timelines, wether it's about sexuality, race or social gaps. And it was one of the first poetry books ever, especially at the time, that did not vilify the gay experience, or the idea of writing your own liberated thoughts with no fear or pressure from any individual or collective system. The book created such a stir when it first came out, many Americans wanted it to be banned from the public due to its vulgarity and explicit gay connotation and harsh social criticism, but they were legally unsuccessful in doing that. The constitution of the United States protected his right to expressive his unpopular and disliked opinion under the first amendment. Make no mistake about it, and because of Allen’s bravery in writing and expression in a movement titled “Beat Poetry” that he is considered by many to be the pioneer of, his legacy in gay literature and artistic expression is purely appreciated and respected until this day. Howl’s meaningful poems are legendary and are usually referenced in films or short monologues today.
The father of beat poetry, Allen Ginsberg, influenced my writing skills so much. It wasn't till I discovered him and his work that I realized that I could paint my own thoughts with words, channel my own perception of anything without any boundaries. When it comes to poetic and expressive writing Ginsberg and other influencers of beat poetry such as Jack Kerouac are the main voices in my head. It’s the freedom in writing, expressing and painting with thoughts that attracts me the most to his poetry in this particular book, “Howl”. Moreover, he's liberated thoughts that are written on this book are major inspirational factors for me that I wish to link to when I'm writing poems for my publication.
Mark borthwick, Comme des Garcons S/S 1997 (Campaign Reference)
(Angela Lindvall by Mark borthwick, Comme des Garcons s/s 1997)
Similar to Heroin Chic, this campaign image actually came around the exact same time as the hype of the visual movement Heroin Chic within the industry. The image glamorizes numbness and pain within a fashion editorial. The model is passed out on a table surface completely unknown and numb to her surroundings. This is a campaign shot that influenced the visuals of my social experiments for this unit of desperation. This powerful image in my opinion is highly symbolic with it and it can resemble wether absolute desperation and numbness to everyday life or even searching for a valuable thing in the most degrading places.
The set of shoot is minimal and pastel with a shifting tones of baige, wood and baby blue. The model is not wearing any accessories or even shoes in the image which further justifies the minimal atmosphere of the campaign and it's appeal for me, visually.I aim to recreate and channel the pose of this campaign into my work in order to highlight my concept even clearer in terms of direction.
Heroin Chic 1990s Reference (The Glorification Of Death, And Addiction Within Fashion Promotion)
Shot Reference #1
Shot Reference #2
Shot Reference #3
Gucci S/S (1997) Campaign photographed by Christian Witkin For Detour Magazine March Issue, (1997)
This movement within the fashion industry that at times was discreet and at other times was clearly shown, is infamously titled "Herion Chic", the Gucci Campaign referenced Above is the most visually linking and powerful example of that era that I wish to specifically symbolize throughout the entirety of this project in terms of styling and showcasing desperation. The Detour Magazine released a very controversial issue in 1997 which glorifies death and heroin addiction in the appear of the models. The aesthetic was so infamous to a point in where even the US president at the time "Bill Clinton" had to criticize it himself in a press conference in the White House.
Although this aesthetic and look of addiction and self-harm is outrageously wrong and inappropriate for anyone to glamorize or commercialize, it is still though, a very factual and troubling element of life that one simply can't avoid. The images showcase models in a hotel room over dosing from heroin and passing out on the floor consciously and unconsciously. Their make-up is highlighted around their eyes, the eyeshadow placed around their eyes are meant to give them a worn out and close to death image/appeal.
The dark appeal or real factors in life that are avoided by so many is an interesting space for me to explore and take inspiration from. But of course, I'm aware of the controversy and buttons this approach can push. However, I'm not looking to glorify harmful lifestyles or acts, I aim to highlight a social and economical issue through the medium of fashion and communication. What I plan to do is to introduce the notion of poverty/harsh capitalism and the suffering of it as the drug that harms individuals to an extent in where they can look as worn out and desperate as the models did around the era of Heroin Chic. Mainly, I aim to only develop the poses of desperation and the makeup aesthetic of the shoot into my work and not the element of heroin or the glorification of any drug or death.
And, in terms of styling and makeup this aesthetic of desperation will highlight and respond to my theme greatly, and because of that I wish to recreate and channel the aesthetic of heroin chic through the use of makeup in my publication.
Your Teeth In My Neck (Song Lyrics)
What do I do it for?
I've been working so hard just to give you more
Gotta get right
What do you do it for?
When the rest of the world is falling through the floor
Just to hold it, they'd give anything in the world
Kill us all off, they'd take our worth they pay us dirt
Is it worth it? Is it worth it?
What do you do it for?
Rich man keeps getting richer, taking from the poor
You gotta get right
- Your Teeth In My Neck by Kali Uchis (2018)
The lyrics of this song from Kali Uchis' latest album "Isolation", inspired me tremendously when I started writing poems and monolgues for my publication highlighting harsh capitalism, shift of wealth within our system and corruption. She also highlighted the issue of the wealth gap that's maintained by the 1% by stating "Rich man keeps getting richer, taking from the poor" In the song.
I believe that she's questioning the purpose behind working so hard for her career and status when everyone else is suffering from financial oppression in different forms. He highlights war and inequality in wealth with her wealth as well through the use of alliteration and repetition. What inspired me the most is her ability to write figuratively but with a flair that indicates her main subject.
(Primary Research) (Velvet, silk) (Romanticism and connotation of wealth with texture and colors)
(Contemporary and Primary Reference of Wealthy Textures, Connotation)
These are three materials that I chose to for the first part of my publication which highlights wealth and social status through their historical and contemporary connotation with upper class culture. The textile choices I picked to communicates wealthy symbolism of Velvet and Silk are directly inspired by the couture and fashion campaigns I referenced previously of Ellie Saab, Hussein Chalayan, Guy Bourdin, Steven Klein etc... They also highlight a particular class of styling that's viewed and perceived within a capitalist society as more valuable or superior because of their wealth. The main reason I even chose to create a contrast with the garments worn in the publication is because I want to clearly justify and explain wealth and the loss of it visually and through fashion without relaying heavily on text or performance as the only form of communication I can justify with.
(Historical And Secondary references of the depiction and connotation of Silk and Blue Velvet)
(Le Robe Bleu by Auguste Toulmouche, 1870)
(Vittorio Reggianini. Detail from Good Companions, 1900)
These are two historical depicted paintings by Auguste Toulmouche and Viittorio Reggianini that showcase the use of Blue Velvet and silk in upper and wealthy classes/ societies from a historical perspective that developed until today. So much of our connotations and understanding of things are mainly retrieved ideas and beliefs from the past that we just can't let go of, such as religion, class, gender and race. Even the color Blue and Black were romanticized in a literary sense, the tones symbolized calmness, prestige and wealth in western societies and other societies which were imperialized by western ideology as well. I mainly wish to use these symbols to be literal forms of wealth in my styling for the first part of my shoot. I aim to historically and contemporarily reference the idea of wealth in my first shoot for this unit purely through the use of fashion and symbolism.
HOMME AUTOMNE-HIVER 2017-2018 MAN
HOMME AUTOMNE-HIVER 2017-2018 MAN
This collection by MAN influenced the garments for the first element of my shoot/narrative greatly. The garment cuts, fabrics of silky polyester, leather and androgynous layouts are all factors that I developed into the collection shown in the shoot. Particularly, the two looks I chose to displayed on this research slide. To me this collection highlights the exhilarated balanced that I wanted for my publication, which is connoting wealth but not to a conventional gender mean, it's beyond the typical picture of how we envision the wealthiest of the world/ cooperate aesthetic and how they chose to appear publicly.
Postmodernism or the cultural logic of late capitalism (Book)
(Global Systems, Contextual Perspective) Collectivism After Modernism (Book)
Melanie Gilligan: Crisis in the Credit System, Episode 1 (2008)
Secondary Research on Bankruptcy (Lost of Wealth) #1
As part of my research for the shifts of wealth and the harshness of our capitalists economies. I decided to witness the actual process myself of filling for bankruptcy by visiting the website and regulations that guide you through filling, and ironically there are a few things that I witnessed which were a mixture of both ironic and comforting gestures notions for me to wrap my head around, and I aim to highlight these points further in my (Secondary Research on Bankruptcy (Lost of Wealth) #2) analysis.
Secondary Research on Bankruptcy (Lost of Wealth) #2
Ironically, on the website the following statement is displayed "You can only apply for bankruptcy online. It costs £680." Which is quite amusing because how would a person who has no assets of financial backing of any sort be able to fill up for something worth 680 pounds without the expanses of the lawyer. This law is harsh and is basically closing an opportunity for someone to get any funds from their bankruptcy claims. And if any law of the bankruptcy is broken one will be forced to face prosecution, which is a profiting business by itself. In that regard, I see myself referencing these realistic elements of restriction into my writing and typography experiments/conceptualizing with metal for this unit.
However, whats the solution to this harmful and inhuman form of lifestyle is a completely new social system going to be the solution, is collectivism and socialism better than individualism and capitalism ? I aim to highlight the two previously mentioned systems of governing and see, which one is more trouble to the human.
Superflex, The Financial Crisis, 2009
(Superflex, The Financial Crisis, 2009, Still From Video Installation, 14 minutes)
This is a film that I decided to reference from my political and economical research for the global financial crisis that occurred in 2008 and how it was address through art/film. I was greatly inspired by this film in particular because it emphazises undescribable worrieness coming from an individual with a close up shot that highlights the tension even more of his experience breaking down from the though of him becoming bankrupt. The context behind this piece that was referenced in the book I previously mentioned "It's the politicial economy, stupid." is something that I aim to link back to and experiment with throughout my process for this unit, but mainly through the angling of the film and by putting someone else in his positions and asking him or her about how they would cope with the economy.
It's The Politicial Economy, Stupid (Book)
(Ressler, Oliver; Sholette, Gregory, It's the political economy, stupid : the global financial crisis in art and theory, London : Pluto Press, 2013)
This book was a key factor for conceptualizing of the political and social commentary of my project. Its highlights and discuses the global financial crisis of 2008, the role it played/the way it effected the economy and art. The author of the book also claims that "And its here that we should start to worry- not only about economic consequences of the meltdown, but about the obvious temptation to reinvigorate war on terror and US interventionism in order to keep the economy running". meaning that capitalism can lead people to desperation in terms of earning many in any sense whether it's in war by selling weapons or invading and taking resources.
This book highlights the political tension that I'm analyzing for this unit, which is circulating around the financial crisis that occurred in 2008, and the unstainable wealth and how we can be treated based of the result of it's unsustainability in our pockets. It inspired me to read more about the topic and conceptualize it for my project through visuals and text. And, I plan to reference films about the economy from the book to my work and research.
(Primary Visit) (Layout and aesthetic reference) ManAbouttown
(Shera Ossorne, ManAboutTown, 2017)
I went to the Central Saint Martins library to research contemporary layouts and techniques that are intriguing in the media of fashion communication. And, I was mainly inspired by this layout and segment of visuals from the ManAbout Magazine issue for 2017 titled into the night shot by Sharna Ossorne and styled by Danielle Emerson. The blurred aesthetic of the imagery which is inspired by a 70s old unclear and colorful television flair is an element and technical approach that I find extremely effective and inspiring at the moment. I've been experimenting with it since the beginning of this project and now I decided to make it the firm edit of my publication for both photo0story and film. The minimal sqaured crops cenetered in the middle of the page is also an element that I wish to experiment and apply into my own work and layout of final project.
Igna Zio (Contemporary layout and setting reference)
(Igna Zio, 2018)
This minimal Layout by the contemporary fashion photographer Igna ziolozano is influential to my own layout and style of setting imagery. I look up to his style of layout a lot when I tend to research other creative directors who are artistically appealing to me, and his style certainly is. The image is centered, squared on the 50 percent focused landscape of the layout, the model is an a minimal set that seems to be photoshopped into him and the frame of the floor. His small layouts and placements of imagery is something I tend to do a lot for this unit, in order to make my photographs and styling symbolism+ props stand out more than the layout and typography of the publication.
Showcasing Wealth And Artistic Direction Within A Setting (Typography And Visual Research)
(Palomo Spain, S/S18 Campaign, shot by Filip Custic, directed by Alexndra Jordana and Oian Areta)
Alejandro Gomez Palomo is a Spanish creative director and founder of the artistic fashion brand Palomo, Spain. Alexandra Jordana and Oian Areta directed these artistic installations deliberately. The campaign's imagery is influenced directly from real life paintings and other conceptual pieces that are associated with realism as an artistic movement, which highlights wealth and a certain social status. The image of the campaign is inspired by classical sculptures, the ideal of hareem in oriental art and romanticism, which is highly elegant and sensual. The minimalistic typography, and bold typography and set along with the layout, which clearly allow the images to stand out in this campaign is the most inspiring aspect for me in the entire publication. The layout of the campaign is something I aim to reference as well technically through my photo-story and film.
His creative direction in campaigning particularly attracted me the most, because he collaborates and hires art directors that are interested in creating visuals that channel art to the highest form. I'm immensely inspired by campaigns that are highly oriented in art and visual romanticism in a way that's on a fast track of consumerism and fast products. Retrieving artistic, ethnical and cultural movements and putting them in the forefront of the commercial market is the objective and agenda that I personally aim to achieve as a creative director for fashion and visual communication. Therefore, to see artistic directors practicing the same method or agenda is influential and sends a clear message of embracing art and putting artistic effort to create products and pieces that benefit the mass market’s taste and lifestyle, instead of making capital and profit the main objective without any quality in their consumers and followers. The flair of his brand and imagery allows me and inspires me to think in an artistic sense when I'm conceptualizing a fashion project, I aim to highlight the first element of my shoot which showcases wealth with the artistic movement of minimalism, which started in the platform of fine art and developed into a fashion movement as well later on in the 1990s.
(Ren Hang) Simplistic typography reference on poster and publication.
(Ren Hang, Promotional Poster, 2014.)
Ren Hang is a Chinese born photographer who's aesthetic in photography captured my interest in layout and visual display in presentation,. The late artist decided to promote his upcoming event with an element of visual manipulation and play on colors with colors of the imagery by blending them with the typography of the poster. A pale model can be seen standing in a studio dominated by blue lighting and has several hands around her genitalia that have vibrate red nail polishes. The interesting aspect of the image is how it's interacts with the color and boldness of the typography. The tone/color of the typography is the exact tone that can be seen on the models' nails. The way the wording is displayed on the image is quite appealing and delicate, because it merges with the image smoothly and it allows the viewer to pay attention to the image and text at the same time, which is what an art promoter/director should aim for when releasing an adverting poster of a headline for an event.
His Photography Book Ren Hang by Ren Hang had the most incredible sensual and seductive imagery that've seen in a publication for a long time his creativity and ideas when it comes to symbolism and working with the body is breath-taking. It's not exactly the theme I'm working on, but his method of symbolism and technical edits of blue and red highlights is something I tend to technically reference into this project. It strongly inspired me to do the same with typography, to balance the interaction of image with the text and not allow any of the two mediums to dominate one another. Although I personally prefer communicating my concepts through imagery only, I still believe that a good balance of the two medias of expression are essential in the world of visual communication and global advertising. However, witnessing his work and creativity in real life as part of my primary research in a bookshop in Soho, London was an exciting experience.
Materialism (Margiela) (Props) For Installation Set Up Reference
(Maison Martin Margiela tabi boots from S/S ‘89 to '02-'03 A/W)
As a further development of the concept of visually symbolizing wealthy materialism through objects such as shoes and wine in my first publication set, I decided to use the leather Vintage Tabi Margiela boots and other props to highlight an exclusive aesthetic that's currently exchanged between wealthy fashion buyers, to symbolize privilege in materialism, which are very expensive to own. I aim to use the boots for an appeal of a glamorous and minimal aesthetic for the set that can be displayed next to the polyester silky throne and the red wine glasses to overall complete a full set of props and communicate wealth as a symbol of the first part of my photo-shoot and photo-story.
(Paolo Roversi) Reference for shoot interaction, set and technicality of edit.
(Naomi Campbell and Kiara Kabukuru photographed by Paolo Roversi for MiXTE Magazine in 1997)
I was interested in the raw and interactive atmosphere between the two models in this photo-shoot, they showed a sense of connection and interaction that I want to highlight in the first part of my photo-shoot as well, between myself and the two other models posing with me. The blurred and noisy aesthetic of the image is something I'm technically inspired by as well. I find the grainy effect with a touch of paige noise quite appealing especially when displayed in-front of a dark color such as black. The minimal props of the shoot is also an aspect that I wish to develop into my work visually and technically, I want to use the power of minimal and symbolism within a space and time that doesn't over shadow the overall set or styling of the models, and I think that this photo-shoot is an appropriate example of that. I will list down a few points as a reminder for my self to consider when I'm finalizing my set for the first photo-shoot I'm having with Alex on Thursday the 23rd of August.
- Minimal Prop
- Aesthetic of edit
- Styling and interaction of the models
(Eli Russell) Editing and Technicality Reference To Imagery
(Lady Gaga by Eli Russell, 2018)
Recently in late August a new shoot of the photographer Eli Russell Linnetz was released on social media (Instragram), and it caused quite a stir of excitement to viewers and followers of trends in fashion photography and communication. And, from a technical view point I was shocked by how similar the edit he used was similar to what've been doing since the beginning of this unit in July. He used a wrapped technique on photoshop to the human form, a minimal setting. And, he photographed imagery through a screen with a B&W edit which contains noise and a blurred tone of purple, red and blue. Which is a very similar approach to how I edit my films and photos, however, I was interested to see how the aesthetic developed to be Pop friendly in editorial shoots. Nevertheless, I wanted to reference this shoot and technical approach to highlight that I'm aware of others currently using a similar aesthetic of editing and presenting for their own publications and shoots.
(Targeting Consumers, Set And Technical Reference) Display Is A Rehearsal, 2017
(Victoria Von Lachmann De Melo Franco, Display Is A Rehearsal, BA Fashion Communication & Promotion, Lethaby Gallery, 2017)
This film/performance piece was so groundbreaking and refreshing to see. Contextually, the idea behind the film is to display several characters and stories that can be seen on social media, and how their online appears don't reflect on their daily personas that are not meant to impress, naturally. It's about questioning the concept of coexisting in a space between who we are and who we want to be socially and digitally. Even though, the contextual importance in the piece is quite interesting, I was mainly intrigued and exhilarated by how the piece is shown visually. The model is displayed in a white room that's worn out in terms of texture, but still gives a neat and minimal visual effect, with a strong contrast of color between the brown leather sofa she's sitting on and the white, pink and red hues of color she's wearing. It also displays parts of her and the other model with her changing their appears on a hanger to metaphorically respond to their concept, she was wearing a white top, pink short and red fishnets/tights.
I wanted to reference this promotional and conceptual piece, because it truly inspired me to realize that thinking outside the box and in a non-commercial aspect of the industry is much more powerful and unique. It gives an interesting and never before seen outcome to the industry and the public, and it a much more powerful way of capturing the consumer's eye. Although the piece was highly conceptual, the clothes are displayed clearly and are the main focus of the piece, thanks to their contrasting colors that brightly distinguished the garments from the white background in the film. Even the promotional posters, that I was given as part of my visit to the exhibition, had a stunning layout, and barely had any typography in them. And was well thought-out and refreshing to see a fashion campaign that had hardly any typography which made the images stand more clearly and aesthetically to me.
(Lucrien Freud) (Historical Reference On Expression and Desoeration) Pain and desperation In poses
Lucian Freud, Small Naked Portrait, (1973 - 1974)
I wanted to use this painting by Lucrian Freud to highlight his perception of pain and desperation and develop it into a contemporary practice that I can represents myself for the first and second part of my publication through the human form and symbolism. His paintings are often quite discomforting, raw and visually draining. it examines the relationship between the artist and the model, it's a direct and observational dialect. His thick technique of painting is recognizable and unique. In the Lucrien’s “Small Naked Portrait”, I chose to research a model can be seen laying naked on a gray sheet with a calming state of depression and tiredness
I consider Freud's work a major source of inspiration for me. The attached painting at the top is a piece that I witnessed in person when I went to the Ashomealen museum long ago. The minute I saw his portrait, I immediately got captured by it's vulnerability and uniqueness. I aim to respond to his refernce by communicating desperation through my poses throughout the entire experimentation process of my publication, and my development of imagery.
Restrainment created by distance
(It's The Political Economy, Stupid) Contextual Content And inspiration for Installation
These are images from a book that I previously referenced on my file titled "It's The Political Economy, Stupid", which was also my choice for analysis in the contextual practice session we had on the 15th of August, 2018. Generally, I used the economical graphs displayed on the first image above from the book to figuratively link the first set of my installation to the economy and the financial shifts that we constantly experience as people of this society. I also took parts of the text from the description of the graphs in the book but linking the terminology of capital into my metaphorical poem and texts for this unit, which I plan to develop as part of my outcome in my final publication.
Recent Primary Visit to White Cube, Bermondsey, 2018
(Robert Irwin, Black Painting, honeycombed aluminium panel with polyester paint, 2008-2009)
This minimal painting/piece was extremely captivating for me, when I saw it I was immediately inspired to recreate it or do an installation influenced by it, however, I'm not sure if I wish to create an installation that's geometrical, I remembered being inspired by a piece Robert Morris did "Untitled 1965, reconstructed 1971" that was very minimal and geometrical which made me consider creating an installation of that nature for my first shoot to connote wealth in a minimal sense. But After Going to the previous exhibition for Memory Palace at Mason's Yard, I was influenced mainly by fabric installations and I think that they would be more visually effective to create in terms of social and fashion symbolism for my publication.
(Jac Leirner, All Together Now, 1991)
This piece clearly highlights still covers of films in a repetitive form, visually. Or it might highlight the progression of film and it's depiction throughout the years, mainly in color and notion. I like how it creates a space for people to interact with using images and contrasting tones of color. I was really inspired by the layout of the spread and how it was connected from the wall to the ground, flat. and how it was covered with glass all over which reflected the lighting of the roof and who ever that was staring directly into it. Visually, I'm inspired by the idea of something typically that's not as solid, perhaps silk, hanging from the wall to the ground in the same way that this piece is layed.
(Locations) Primary Research for Publication
(Location Research #1, Old Street)
(Location Research #2, Archway)
(Location Research #3, Old Street)
These are primary images of locations I'm interested in shooting in for the second part of my publication, which highlights the issue of poverty and shift of wealth within our corrupt capitalist societies. These photos are taken in places across East London such as Old Street and Archway. I aim to create a visualization for those places and develop them further into my up coming shoot for this unit. I will reference more locations I research on my sketchbook select my final firm decisions and reflect on it on my online journal.
Primary Research (Texture For Head-piece/Prop)
These are primary images I took myself of worn concrete falling and fading off walls, which connotes poverty and an area that's quite rough and not an area of individuals who are financially privileged. I aim and plan to develop this texture using plaster to create a headpiece that I can later blend in with the styling of my first shoot for the publication.
(Technical Reference) Pinch Neck” (1968) - Bruce Nauman
Pinch Neck” (1968) - Bruce Nauman
Bruce's performance films are extraordinarily to me, but this one in particular is the most powerful in my opinion. The piece practices Pinching yourself testing your limits and trying to return back to reality, which can also symbolize and connote (Addiction or obsession). Even the display of the same films on lop are an inspiring formate for me that's visually pleasing, and I should consider later on when I'm planning the presentation of my outcome. Nevertheless, his experiments in film inspire me a lot, his work allows me to create expressive and conceptual work that's beyond the commercial world and simplicity in visuals. His work is highly figurative and minimalistic, but conceptually strong, in my opinion. His concepts and technically in editing in showing a faded aesthetic is something I link to my work. And I plan to do silent films experimenting with objects and individuals conceptually in a way that links to story telling and genuine human interaction with pain. Bruce is an artist that I always link back to when I'm creating film, his technicality in film making/experimentation and of displaying conceptual grained/blurred emphasizing the experimentation of the human form through films left a very strong technical connection to me and what I do in terms of conceptualizing an editing effect that's linked in between what's known as contemporary and historical, the blurred and clear, the mono and the colored.
(Technical Reference For Space Of Shoot) Textures For Layout And Minimal Set
(UNTITLED, 1990. Günther Förg)
Günther Förg was a German painter, graphic designer, sculptor and photographer. His abstract style was influenced by American abstract painting. His work is visually stunning The piece I chose to analyze “untitled, 1990”, is one of his most effective and publicly recognized paintings he did. He separated the canvas in half to showcase a strong contrasting barrier, technically and visually.
A mixture of various tones such as grey, black, wood and white are seen in his minimal layout of tones, which an appeal I wish to visually link to in my first photo-shoot, which connotes wealth through the use of minimalism and symbolism. I was absolutely stunned the first time I saw it, with it's merging tones that highlight a particular status that's rooted in minimal beauty and visuals, these tones highlight minimal wealth to be without the use of literal symbols such as gold or silver. I aim to highlight a contrast of tone that's a pastel in the gradual tones of white and grey with the first element of my shoot linking to the creative aesthetic of this minimal painting and it's visual appeal.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2019 Menswear Collection
I was really inspired by the structure of look 37 and 38 from Rick Owen's S/S 2019 Menswear Collection. The way the fabric is worn around a structured shape, I'm not sure if it's metal or plastic but regardless, it looks sharp and solid. And the Oversized fabrics around it are elements that I find visually appealing, particularly to my concept at the movement in where I'm researching garments and outfits that I want to use as props from the second photo-shoot that I plan to do which highlights the adaption to poverty. I'm thinking about taking inspiration from these two looks by including a structure that's covered with plastic bags and a long silky polyester fabric, which is the exact one I used for my first shoot, which will visually symbolize holding on to the previous wealth that he or she lost.
And due to this geometrical structure in the collection the garment can easily be used as a prop/installation for the outdoors shoot as well when it's not worn. In that regard, I aim to develop this particular research into my conceptualization process for the garment I wish to highlight in the last part of my publication.
(Wine) (Primary Research On Symbolic Materialism/ Social Perception)
(Primary Image, three wine glasses still, 22/08/2018)
This is a primary Image I took of 3 glasses of wine in order to create one more symbolic prop along-side expensive shoes that can highlight wealth and an upper class culture. Red wine is a well known social drink that's depicted to be fancy and particularly exclusive to a certain class. And it's also one of most expensive alcohol price ranges alongside Champaign, which is another form of drinking that's meant or is targeted by a certain culture of wealth.
(A screenshot from an article written by Hugo Gye, published in Dec 12 2012, DailyMail)
Even in an informative publication the connotation and depiction of red wine with wealth is certainly believed as a collective notion/stereotype whether it's from a humorous perspective or a serious one. And that's why I decided to display it as a prop for my first photo-shoot.
Primary Research On Texture (Plastic Bags and trash)
Similar to my previous textile primary research that was aimed to highlight wealth, this reference is the opposite. Because it's meant to highlight lower culture/poverty, and the lost of wealth. That's I chose to use materials that can a cheap negative connotation or view. Such as plastic, worn metal and worn concrete. And, most importantly. I purposely choice to to link and merge plastic with black polyester that resembles silk in order to create a social contrast of materials. And hoe the plastic is covey the silk as a metaphorical gesture of lostness of status within a society that worships any factor that connotes money. And my choice of merging ccintrasting fabrics materials that connote a different class in society is directly inspired by John Galiano's 2000 show titled "homeless".
Rottingdean Bazaar AW17
(Rottingdean Bazaar A/W 2017)
This collection is visually powerful and clearly highlights a social status. It could be seen as a comment on poverty being embraced by a youthful individuals or even seeing the art in a lower culture, similar to what McQueen saw in Savage Beauty. I find it influential how the collection is interactive with a space not just a garment. The way the socks are layed out repetitively on the carpet links to the socks on the shirt, which makes the garment an installation by it self. As a creative direction student I'm very fascinated by the blend of fine arts and fashion as a performance and not as separate outcomes or mediums.
Nevertheless, I wish to reference this particular collection and campaign for my second shoot for the publication which comments and highlights on the lost of wealth and adaption to poverty.
ANDY WARHOL (1928-1987) Shoes two unique polaroid prints each: 4¼ x 3 3/8 in. (10.8 x 8.6 cm.) Executed in 1981.
ANDY WARHOL (1928-1987) Shoes two unique polaroid prints each: 4¼ x 3 3/8 in. (10.8 x 8.6 cm.) Executed in 1981.
Warhol transformed the role of contemporary art in the commercial market and the means of materialism and glamour. The Polaroids taken by him showcase several shoes/ heels in different tones and textures, mainly leather, that communicates a sense of comfort and glamour through minimal symbolism. These images highlight the materialism and glamour if leathered heels and shows as props that connote wealth and social comfort in free capitalist world, which can be very harsh. The way Warhol used objects to symbolize glamour and wealth is an element of inspiration that I wish to develop into a prop for my first installation/set-up for a shoot. Around the time this Polaroid was released Warhol had a huge celebrity exposure that no other fine artist of his time had.
He involved himself in pop culture and made fine arts popular and on top of the commercial market. He did plenty of celebrity prints such as, Marilyn Monroe, Grace Jones, Lisa Minnelli, Mohammed Ali etc… And then, he started showcasing and creating pieces that reflect on his own appearance and self. Warhol's ability to make art capitalist friendly and to create such an empire out fine art influences is the key definer of his intelligence and the world of "successful" fine artists in our current free capitalist and money driven societies, he once said, " Being good in business is the most fascinating kind of art. Making money is art and working is art and good business is the best art,”,- Andy Warhol. Which highlight how he used the notion of capitalism which is usually vilified and regarded as toxic around fine artists and made it the medium itself by fitting into the system and still finding a sense of artistry into what he makes and produces into the market.
Part of my creative direction is to always include myself visually in my work and give myself the visual recognition that models and celebrities gain instead of the artists and creators themselves, which is a common thing that Warhol does as well, which I take inspiration from when I'm conceptualizing a shoot I'm in. Furthermore, his philosophy is the an aspect of approaching art that I find extremely fascinating, especially with how it work so effectively within a capitalist society that doesn't usually value art of finacially look after artists.
Book, The Philosophy of Andy Warhol, 1975
Tate Modern, Talk, Primary Visit
(Tate Modern, Talk about Public, Private, Secret On Photography & the Configuration of Self, 25/07/2018)
During a week day of research I decided to purchase a ticket and attend a talk in Tate Modern about photography and it's role within public and private conditions for inspiration and interest. The book they were launching was also interesting, because it had a highly statement that was political and about how capitalism has no moral control at times, in where people would want war and wage violence for materialistic purposely that are harmful for humanity. Making money out of chaos is a word said at the meeting that really captured my attention and I wish to highlight it and perhaps use it in my writing for my publication.
White terrorism and racism was also discussed following the discussion of Trevon Martin and how in the media vilified images of him wearing a hoodie were displayed to justify his murder and portray his experience based of his appearance within a stereotypical and racist context.
I was truly surprised by how political the panelists were, for some reason I thought that the talk would be mainly on the social impact of pop figures through the use of photography in social media such as Kim Kardashian. However, the talk took a completely different turn that I wasn't expecting.
(Connotation And Contrast Of Wealth) (Location) Primary Research
These are two primary images I took in Selfridges and Mayfair. To highlight a contrast of class. And, to also research different parts that would highlight wealth for my first aspect of the shoot. However, after looking up places and spots to shoot first part of my publication, I just decided to set an installation for it in doors within a minimalistic flair that would highlight wealth. And, continuation of my narrative which circulates around poverty and the lost of wealth outdoors within a rough spot in Archway or a surrounding area in east London.
(Primary Research) "Desperation And Numbness" gathering poses
These are quick primary tests I've done highlighting particular poses that I plan to visualize and develop into my sketchbook and publication. I wanted to experiment visually with the idea of passing out on the floor from desperation and numbness, consciously. And I plan on developing this particular experiment for the second part of my publication which is about how one would adapt to an extreme social shift from wealth to poverty.
These poses are mainly inspired by my previous primary research on how individuals would cope to bankruptcy in Social Experiment 1,2, 3 & 4 and Erwin Wurm's One Minute Sculpture, 1998 experiments.
(Primary Research) Fourth Social Experiment (Adaption)
(Primary Research) Third Social Experiment (Self-harm And Disruption)
(Description) Third And Fourth Social Experiment
Manifesto - Nick Knight, Ruth Hogben
(Technicality And Medium Reference) Monologue and Film Influence (Manifesto - Nick Knight, Ruth Hogben)
(Lady Gaga Monster Ball - Manifesto of Little Monsters - Nick Knight, Ruth Hogben, SHOWstudio, 2010)
This a short fashion film directed by Nick Knight and Ruth Hogben for Lady Gaga's world tour known as "The Monster Ball" (2009-2011). The context of the film is not directly tied to my concept at all, the context of this paticular film are targeted at her audience and their engagement with her when she's on stage.
However, the technical aspect of this short monologue is what inspired me the most. The set and angling of the camera while she was performing and changing her looks with every word is the most inspiring aspect of this film that I wish to develop and reference for my own film experiments. The dark and morbid aesthetic of the monologue and the B&W texture of the edit is another inspiring technical factor that I wish to develop into my film and social experiments. Even the monologue she wrote for the film was an influencing aspect for my writing skills for the texts and poem that I plan to write for this publication that I'm currently working on. Her use of allegories, symbolism and metaphorical linking throughout the monologue is an element of literature that this piece inspired me to link into my own film.
Blasphemy : art that offends (Book)
Plate, S. Brent, 1966-, Blasphemy : art that offends, Black Dog Publishing, (2006)
While I was researching for a visual book that would inspire me artistically to start developing aesthetics for my publication at the Central Saint Martins library. I found a book titled "Blasphemy : art that offends", which contains works of art that criticize religions throughout different mediums. A page and piece that inspired me the most was this installation by the American Artist Dread Scott Tyler created in 1989 and was displayed at the School of The Art of Chicago. The piece was very controversial and caused a stir within the US. Public founding for the school was discredited and if any walker stepped on the American flag he or she will be charged with falony. Though, this piece is not religious, it still was effective enough to highlight how being a patriotic is a political cult that's as collective and passionate as any religious group in terms of feedback.
The way the installation was displayed boldly in criticizing a widely accepted system of war and power is profoundly inspiring to me. And even, the way he displayed the piece in a minimalistic nature is something I visually wish to do, because it's profoundly appealing and effective, visually.
Why suicide ? (Primary Research) (Questionnaire) for Unit 7
Why Desperation Can Lead To Suicide ? (Primary Research) (Questionnaire) for Unit 7 (Description)
This short text contains a description of the primary questionnaire that I completed, asking several individuals about their thoughts on suicide and the causes behind it. I aim to visually create symbols that reflect on the answers that are mentioned on the short video but mainly about the desperation caused by political and economical issues, which eventually result in various forms of self harm. Linking the questions I got from this questionnaire in a political, social and economical context is what I aim to achieve in order to develop more ideas of how I wish to comment and symbolize this disheartening and serious matter.
However, I don't wish to make this project about suicide as the main topic matter, I just want to highlight a certain reaction that others face when they're oppressed economically or when their privilege or sense of comfort shifts.
Depiction of suicide In Pop Culture and Fashion
(Paparazzi, Directed by Jonas Åkerlund, Written by Lady Gaga and Jonas Åkerlund, 2009)
Similar to Heroin Chic, other depictions of horrific factors in life are glamorized through fashion visuals in pop culture. An example of that can be seen in Lady Gaga's music video for Paparazzi which is directed by Jonas Akerlund. The video captures the glamorized idea of the death of the famous superstar as she said it in her own words during her interview for 60 minutes "Isn't that the age we live in ? don't we just want to see those who have it, just lost it all?", she was of course referring death of Marilyn Monroe, Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison, Amy Winehouse, Alexander McQueen etc... And many other artists who took their own lives because of addiction, mental disorders, or social pressure.
Although this video touches on a topic that's highly social on our current climate of pop culture, it still doesn't link contextually to my theme. However, visually, I think that I can develop many influences from it for my publication and the narration of death through fashion based imagery.
Mouchette, 1967 (Historical Reference)
Mouchette by Robert Bresson, Cinematography, Ghislain Cloquet, 1967
Mouchette is a historical French film I chose to reference for this unit. The film narrates the story of the troubled teen Nadine Nortier, who faces difficulty everywhere in her life and circle. Her father is an alcoholic abuser who treats her badly throughout the film. And, her mother is hopeless and ill as she slowly dies. As she was wandering one day, she met a peacher who sheltered her in his cabin but eventually abused and assaulted her. He even used her to cover for a crime he committed. Eventually as the challenges of Nadine's life hit her constantly she decided to take her own life. It's an interesting angle of suicide which denotes that committing the act is not always a mental disorder, but it can be caused by external factors that are social.
This film does not link to my project directly in a contextual manner. However, I chose to reference it purely because of the aesthetic it portrays of a faded Black and White flair and stills from a film. Also, the visuals of her committed act of suicide was an interesting symbol of death expressed through the use of film that I wish to reference.
Investigating the Relationship Between Social and Economic Policy Views, Firearm Ownership, and Death by Firearm in a Sample of Suicide Decedents (Research On Suicide)
(Archives of Suicide Research, Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3, Sarah E. Butterworth , B.S.,Claire Houtsma , B.S.,Joye C. Anestis , Ph.D. &Michael D. Anestis , Ph.D, Pages 420-431 | Accepted author version posted online: 20 Jul 2017, Published online: 05 Oct 2017)
This study and graph is the contextual source that I wanted to analyze and link to greatly with this project. After looking up several suicide researches and cases that are based off mental illness and emotional distress for unclear reasons, I was finally able to find a contextual source that points at the social, economical, and political reasons I want to investigate behind suicide. Because, I personally believe that suicide is also reflective on external factors in our world and climate that are harmful, and they're not always internal as some of the other studies have listed. We are as individuals in my opinion reflect and react strongly to our surroundings and societies. And, our reactions are not always coherent or rational we act out of order and we commit the most vile things for our own existence, such as suicide, crime, drugs etc... This study shows a data and analysis of the opinions, social and economical thoughts of the suicide attempters. It clearly highlight their political beliefs by stating if they're liberals or conservatives, their age, gender, race. living costs, employment status etc.. Which contextually develops and links to my opinion of suicide caused by external factors of our society and not just internal mental disorders. This study also discusses and studies the issue of gun control in the US to suicide.
I aim to develop this effective study into my work contextually and visually. By recording primary imagery of individuals that struggle with a capitalist harsh life or a collective pressure that kills their individuality and sense of expression, which can cause emptiness. Nevertheless, this study is the most effective out of the previous ones I've done and I plan to develop this particular concept further into my publication and project.
Archives of Suicide Research, Volume 22, 2018 - Issue 3, Sarah E. Butterworth , B.S.,Claire Houtsma , B.S.,Joye C. Anestis , Ph.D. &Michael D. Anestis , Ph.D, Pages 420-431 | Accepted author version posted online: 20 Jul 2017, Published online: 05 Oct 2017
Death (Book) (The aesthetics and methods of death through different forms)
Ades, Dawn; Charnley, Clare, 1949-; Kite, Roger; Lloyd, Richard; Purdue, Freya; Cambridge Darkroom;Kettle's Yard Gallery., Death, Cambridge : Cambridge Darkroom : (1988)
This book doesn't directly link to my concept but it helps me visualize the aesthetics of a certain part of it. In order to create a narrative that highlights death in my publication, I needed to find visual sources that can help me develop my communication skills through imagery. And, during my Central Saint Martins library visit to conceptualize my project for research I was able to highlight that factor of death and suicide better after visually studying this book and it's dark aesthetics of death methods for my publication. The image of the guy getting chocked circulating around a contact sheet of the same image on repetition is a piece that interested me visually and not so much contextually. I see myself recreating visuals that are influenced by the communication of chocking as a method of death.
And that's why I chose to reference this visual book into my research file.
Allen Ginsberg Reading Howl (Beat Poetry)
Heroin Chic (1997) (Historical Reference)
Weary ( Song Lyrics) (Political and social view point on racial and economical struggle)
I'm weary of the ways of the world
Be weary of the ways of the world
I'm weary of the ways of the world
I'm gonna look for my body, yeah
I'll be back like real soon
I'm gonna look for my body, yeah
I'll be back like real soon
I'm gonna look for my body, yeah
I'll be back like real soon
But you know that a king is only a man
With flesh and bones, he bleeds just like you do
- Weary by Solange (2016)
This song is highly political and economical and touches on so many factors of our world that unprivileged folks of any sort experience on daily basis and throughout their lifetimes. It's a warning, Solange is warning those who understand and share her perspective about the world and it's social/political injustices mainly to people of color from economic inequality, poverty and the justice system. The lyrics she wrote challenge our common understanding of our system and how it treats individuals that are not privileged financially or racially.
Analyze a bit of the lyrics and link them to your perspective and understanding of it. And mention how it influenced you.
Collective and political view on society being pressuring
Bernard, Jay, 1988, Dysphoria collective. Issue 2, Jan 2017. Respectability : race/class, [Dysphoria Collective], (2016)
During my Central Saint Martins primary visit to gather contextual references for my unit 7 project. I asked if I could get a private view of this Zen titled "Dysphoria collective", which highlights race and class. The zen includes symbolic illustrations circulating around the previously mentioned issues of race and class. And the zen goes more in depth by mentioning certain issues that people from restricted class margins or minorities commit such as suicide, due to their limited abilities to achieve or be given opportunities in life. Interviews in the publications, also inspired more ideas for me to include into my publication. The author's own personal story and growing up in the middle class society is a topic that's widely discissued throughout the publication. The most effective page in the zen for me was page "18", which the writer states;
"For colored bois, who've thought about suicide
The times love and patience wasn't enough
for we fight through the devaluation of our bodies
knowing ourselves more than the world
And hoping someone would see you the same."
In my opinion the short poem, connotes severe loneliness that minorities feel from the collective view points they get from the majority. And, the struggles they face in life which can lead them to harmful thoughts. Moreover, I believe the poem was closed off with a line that showcases the need of finding someone who connects with you as an outsider or a unique soul.
Nevertheless, this Zen was an interesting visual read. It doesn't necessarily link or tie to my project theme or concept,but it does however touch on certain issues that I'm addressing but in a different way. And, that's why I decided to reference this book on my file.
(Minimalism) Robert Morris
(Robert Morris, Untitled 1965, reconstructed 1971)
As I mentioned previously in my proposal, minimalism is an aesthetic that I wish to address and link to visually for my publication mainly in the first part of it, which is located within a constructed white space. If I were ever to design an installation for my publication it would be minimal and geometrical, due to my direct reference to robert Morris and the art form of expression he paved commercially.
This piece that I choice to reference is the one that spoke to me the most, because it's minimal but with an element of classism in my opinion. The surface of installation is flat and neat, not worn or aesthetically damaged. Which, immediately gives it a more sophisticated and expensive appael.
(Campaign Reference) Chantal Michel, Der stille Gast
(Chantal Michel, Der stille Gast 2006)
This Campaign Reference was visually very importance to my conceptualizing process because it reflects on a visual element that I wish to highlight greatly on my publication. The element of numbness and desperation is another visual element that I wish to communicate through my first shoot for the publication.
And luckily, this minimal image showcases the aesthetic and style I wish to channel for my publication. The carpet is baige and plain, the model is obscure under a table numb to her surroundings and trying to escape a particular factor in life. This campaign inspired me in it's artistry and minimal approach and I wish to recreate images that respond to this particular shoot and campaign by Chantal Michel.
Elie Saab Couture Fall 2016
Elie Saab Couture Fall 2016
As part of my research for the first part of my publication that's meant to connote wealth, I started looking at couture shows and decided to reference a few who I wish to highlight in my publication. Velvet and silk are in my opinion very effective fabrics that showcases someone's status immediately. And as expected and known these two fabrics are tend to be a common choice for designers to do when they're creating haute couture piece targeting certain people from certain social/political statuses. Blue Velvet, is equally as romanticized as silk in my opinion, and I was recently inspired by the Elie Saab Fall couture Fall 2016 collection that he designed and a permanent color and textile choice that was shown repeatedly in the collection is velvet, and that's why I decided to reference this particular show to indicate my inspirational factor of velvet highlighting wealth as a social status through fashion.
(Guy Bourdin) Classism, hightlighting the glamorization of wealth in fashion photography.
(Shot #2) Mistress and maid, Guy Bourdin, 1977
The objectification of wealth was always a topic in fashion communication that's highly glamorizing, even to harsh factors of capitalism. The shoot highlighting a fetish that's curated within the contrast of two social statuses one of the mistress and the other is from the maid, which is purely rooted in the history of western capitalism. In the imagery a shift of social roles can be seen with the maid tying the mistresses shoe and then the mistress tying the maid's shoes in the other shot. Which to me highlights a create factor of social shifts in our societies which are driven purely by money, one day if the maid became wealthy enough she could become a mistress and if the mistress lost all her power which is backed by her money she could be subjected to being a maid herself. There's no doubt that this shoot is highly glamorizing a job that many people of lower middle class loathe and consider soul destroying to their potential and dreams. That factor of glamorizing an element or a thing that's destructive in fashion is going to be the next topic I aim to research for my publication. Heroin Chic is the perfect example that I can think of and aim to research and take further for my publication's narrative.
I aim to construct some sort of a social commentary highlighting harsh capitalism while showcasing wealth and privilege within a particular space and time through symbolism, with a bigger context that's linked to my previous researches on our global financial system.
(Connotion of wealth and status through fashion commuincation) Steven Klein And Edward Enninful
Dolce & Gabbana’s silk satin bodysuit and silk dress (on chair) shot by Steven Klein and styled by Edward Enninful.
So much of Steven Klein's aesthetic when it comes to fashion communication and photography, in my opinion, is dark or strongly glamorized classical sense. Similar to Guy Bourdin's photography, Klein's aesthetic and style of photography is mainly conventional for gender roles and main stream demands specially from dominating fashion brands such as, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Dior etc...
Therefore, I thought that he was the perfect example to reference for my first shoot which would be slightly different, I aim to connote wealth and class in the same way that he does for most of his shots, but I do not wish to make my models gender conforming by particular garments of aesthetic. I aim to equalize blend the two gender together to rebel against the conventional status of fashion photography that's pushed by mainstream fashion brands. Nevertheless, I thought that this shoot and his aesthetic is essential for me to reference a certain class for my publication.
The styling of the D&G pieces in the shoot by Edward Enninful includes a high end tux with a lingerie piece that includes stockings as accessories which is again a very conventional choice of clothing, but yet still it highlights wealth, power and a certain corporate status very well, which is why I chose to reference this aesthetic closely to what I'm going to gather for my publication.
(Reference) Makeup At Vibskov S/S18
(Vibskov S/S 2018)
While I was researching looks and makeups that are representative to the first part of my publication. I wanted to be explorative in terms of accessories too. I aimed to look at different pieces and uses in make up in fashion shows and campaigns that are not conventional. And, I did. I found this aspect of placing a synthetic accessory on the face quite appealing. And I might also take inspiration from my previous research of Hussein Chalayan's fashion show and blend it into one head piece or choice of accessory/ makeup that I can blend into my styling work for this unit.
(Terry Richadson) Eating, comfort and a priviled meal
Vogue Japan, July 2011, Lindsey Wixson eating Spaghetti shot by Terry Richardson, edited by George Cortina and styled by Recine and Frank B.
This shot was clearly meant to poke fun at fashion as an industry by making a model who be typically known as a figure that usually starves to stay fit in publications and shows, eat an entire bowl of spaghetti is quite humorous. And, linking my point back to my research file for part 2 in where I referenced Isabella Blow's shoot for cooking in couture for my Celebrating Archway project, she used a contrasting element of social status by cooking in couture, which is not a common practice visually. I believe, the a similar element of a juxtaposition is shown here as well with the model stuffing her face with spaghetti while wearing a couture Mugler gown.
Moreover, this shoot links to the first element of my publication which is meant to highlight wealth and social status before the crash of the economy. To be this shoot is dripping in privilege from it's meal, props and model. Therefore, I decided to consider the idea of referencing this particular shoot for my publication and set. However, if I decided to reference the act of eating of drinking in my first element of the publication it would be used for a morbid or suicidal downfall from some of the individuals reaction to the financial crash that would effect their lives harshly.
(Commentary on Harsh Capitalism and It's Aftermath) The Big Short (2015)
(Still from film #1)
(Still from film #2) (The Big Short directed by Adam McKay 2015)
This film strongly highlights the global financial recession that occurred in 2008 with depth and effective coverage. It shows how the real life based characters in the film reacted and coped with the crash. The sources of the crash which are mainly caused by mortgage deals and unpaid credits are clearly justified from the begging of the film. I thought the film was very informative contextually and visually representative of the cooperate environment that caused so much of the chaos that the world faced a few years ago. The dialogue of the film is also something that I find very inspiring to the way I write poems and texts for my publications and I plan to develop it even further by channeling the source of the financial struggle and how other cope to it woth it mainly that was repeatedly explored in the film.
Chalayan F/W 2018
Chalayan F/W 2018
This latest collection by Hussein Chalayan is very influential to the first element of my publication that's meant to showcase wealth before the shift of class occurs after personas I will conceptualize get bankrupt.
The elegance and avant-garde status that is connoted from the head piece and the jacket is something I aim to channel with the garments in my publication through minimalism sihouette. I want to highlight status and the cooperate world but not in a literal form, meaning that I don't aim or wish to make my models dress up in a typical tuxedo or a dinner dress in a luxurious living room of some sort. Instead, I want to gather a garment that has an element of inspiration from that status with a touch of androgyny and minimalism as well. Which's why I would consider the coat worn by the model above at Chalayan's F/W 2018 show to be the appropriate styling choice for my shoot. And, I wish to create a headpiece that's slightly inspired by this plastic piece that Chalayan chose for his look. As part of my creative direction, I plan to construct and control each look and piece that's showcased in the publication and crediting this essential source of influence is a must.
(Notion of Capitalism And Personal Freedom)The political theory of POSSESIVE INDIVIDUALISM (Book)
The World's Gross Demostic Product during the Financial Crisis
Source: The Economist
The world's gross demostic product, which means "the monetary value of all the finished goods and services produced within a country's borders in a specific time period" went to it's all time low since the great depression in the 1920s. The entire world was effected by this crisis and the only way these banks coped with their disasters was to either declare bankruptcy or ask their governments to bail them out. But the ones who were truly effected by this are the ones who paid for mortgages and invested all their assets in banks. But, maintaining all of their savings to get higher interests and protecting their assets (homes, cars, businesses etc..) by banks only made their situations worse, because the banks lost everything and the entire system crashed down, which made their investments and finance go with the wind. However, that created a bigger problem other than people committing suicide and being thrown in jail for not being able to pay their debts, many of them ended up jobless and in poverty. Which ultimately made the entire power of the economy shift more to the 1%, and the rest of the people aren't able to contribute to the economy at all.
Before And Aftermath Of The 2007-2008 Financial Crisis
(Source: Bloomberg, FDIC; banks' annual and interim reports)
This is an analytical graph provided by Bloomberg's which discussed the starting point and inspiration I have for this unit, which based off the global financial crisis/recession and the shift of wealth that can happen within a second if someone's business or wealth is invested badly or is debunked by a failing bank or the economy collapsing. The analysis show's the United states bank profits dropped to -25b, which is partly because of their unlawful mortgage and credit deals that fooled buyers from different classes and backgrounds. Europe and the UK, also faced a harsh shift and a collapsing economy that went down to below -50b! The study is quite interesting because it highlights the global impact of that financial crisis that turned out to be global and not local only to the United States, which further justifies my point of using the phrase "Global System" along with financial. From personal experience and see the recession and the after math of it growing up I decided to touch on the issue of the shift of wealth and our oppressive capitalist global system.
I aim to create a visual narrative inspired by the real events of the financial crisis and how it effected people and the way they dealt/ coped with it differently. Although this study is highly contextual I might take visual elements from it as a symbolic reference for a shoot or a visual experiment through props, text or photoshop.
Source: American Bankruptcy Institute
This is a graph that highlights fillings of cooperate business/ banks for bankruptcies from 1980 until 2016, and as expected the highest requests to fill were around two recessions the 1980s recession and the 2008 global financial recession. Bankruptcy fillings is such a double standard form of helping within any capitalist society. It tends to usually rescue cooperations and the 1% more than any other individual. An example for this situation is when the Great Recession happened banks were getting bailed off immediately by the government and were filling for immersive bankruptcy orders and got funded and protected by them. However, other individuals especially wealthy or higher middle class were not able to recover from their debt and they were faced by very harsh/restrictive regulations that can harm their future and the future of their predecessors (children). I aim to compare this study with a personal bankruptcy and experience the actual process myself by getting into the official UK government website (https://www.gov.uk/bankruptcy) and see the process and requirements for filling a bankruptcy and view it as a financially struggling individual.
Source: American Bankruptcy Institute
This graph provided by the America bankruptcy institute highlights the personal fillings for bankruptcy in the United States from 1980 until 2016. And, expectedly, the highest bankruptcy fillings were during the great global financial recession in 2008. This study showcases a data on personal bankruptcy, which is an on going process that people relay on when they're on great debt. Many people get rejected from a applying for a bankruptcy because they don't meet the financial or legal requirements needed to complete that process. Which, leaves them with no other option but to be thrown in jail, because they simply don't have assets or wealth that can cover their debt. Which makes me question deeply, why is our global capitalist system treating us so harshly ? Why is money more valuable than the soul of the human ? And the most interesting aspect of all of this is that your status as a person is never safe at any minute your wealth can shift into poverty if you didn't manage it well, or if another global economy recession happens.
Nevertheless, I wish to highlight and cover this contextual aspect of shifting in my own work by highlighting our current harsh capitalist system and what it can do to the individual and his or her reality. Although, a new form of socialism is being activated around Europe and certain western countries that offers free healthcare, public funding and public schools they still don't cover the intensive need of survival within a safe home. But in the same time, if people are provided with everything that they want and need would they be motivated to do anything in life ? That's another social factor I aim to read about and reference on my file.